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Textile Fragment

19th century (made)
Place of origin

A silk woven, patterned lampas. The ground is a 2:1 twill, Z direction. The pattern is created with lance effects of the supplementary wefts. The pattern is of origami styled kimonos with starbursts and floral icons in the background. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in 1:2 twill, Z direction, over 1/3 of the warp ends. The fragment has selvedge on one side and a top edge.

Warp
1) ground
silk, 1-ply, slight S
tawn
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, STA
taupe
Ratio 3:1

Weft
Ratio 1:2 (1:3 where the gilded paper is used)
1) ground
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
taupe
app. 26 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
purple, peach, lime green, white, dark green
b) gilded paper


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
woven silk and gilded paper
Brief description
Fragment of woven, patterned silk. Lampas. Japan, 19th century.
Physical description
A silk woven, patterned lampas. The ground is a 2:1 twill, Z direction. The pattern is created with lance effects of the supplementary wefts. The pattern is of origami styled kimonos with starbursts and floral icons in the background. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in 1:2 twill, Z direction, over 1/3 of the warp ends. The fragment has selvedge on one side and a top edge.

Warp
1) ground
silk, 1-ply, slight S
tawn
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, STA
taupe
Ratio 3:1

Weft
1) ground
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
taupe
app. 26 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
purple, peach, lime green, white, dark green
b) gilded paper
Ratio 1:2 (1:3 in some areas of gilded paper)
Dimensions
  • Height: (mm)
  • Weight: (mm)
Gallery label
Figured silk with gold thread. Yedo, Japan: 19th century.
Summary
A silk woven, patterned lampas. The ground is a 2:1 twill, Z direction. The pattern is created with lance effects of the supplementary wefts. The pattern is of origami styled kimonos with starbursts and floral icons in the background. The pattern is bound on the front by the binding warp in 1:2 twill, Z direction, over 1/3 of the warp ends. The fragment has selvedge on one side and a top edge.

Warp
1) ground
silk, 1-ply, slight S
tawn
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, STA
taupe
Ratio 3:1

Weft
Ratio 1:2 (1:3 where the gilded paper is used)
1) ground
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
taupe
app. 26 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
purple, peach, lime green, white, dark green
b) gilded paper
Collection
Accession number
FEC.LOST 98/15/4.28

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
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