Sleeveless Coat thumbnail 1
Sleeveless Coat thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Sleeveless Coat

1723-1735 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Woman's overgarment, sleeveless with tassels. Formal wear for a lady of 1st rank. Front fastening with gilt buttons, no collar, sleeveless, sideless. Multi-coloured tasseled fringe at the hem ( blue, green, red, yellow). Bordeaux red silk plain weave lining. White silk satin ground with supplementary wefts ( gold, green, red, blue, white) bound in twill. The main body features four five-clawed passing dragons pursuing sacred pearls among multi-coloured clouds, above peaks amid waves and lishui ( striped border). Borders are edged with a narrow black silk cut velvet trim, to which brass studs have been applied. Superior quality of weaving. This sleeveless overgarment would have been worn by women over their court robes. The deep tasselled fringe makes the coat full-length.
Both the shape of the waves and the quality of the weaving indicate a 18th century datation.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Satin weave silk with supplementary weft patterning
Brief description
Woman's sleeveless overgarment, satin weave silk with supplementary weft patterning, tasselled hem, China, Qing dynasty, 1723-35
Physical description
Woman's overgarment, sleeveless with tassels. Formal wear for a lady of 1st rank. Front fastening with gilt buttons, no collar, sleeveless, sideless. Multi-coloured tasseled fringe at the hem ( blue, green, red, yellow). Bordeaux red silk plain weave lining. White silk satin ground with supplementary wefts ( gold, green, red, blue, white) bound in twill. The main body features four five-clawed passing dragons pursuing sacred pearls among multi-coloured clouds, above peaks amid waves and lishui ( striped border). Borders are edged with a narrow black silk cut velvet trim, to which brass studs have been applied. Superior quality of weaving. This sleeveless overgarment would have been worn by women over their court robes. The deep tasselled fringe makes the coat full-length.
Both the shape of the waves and the quality of the weaving indicate a 18th century datation.
Dimensions
  • Length: 137.16cm
  • Shoulder width: 45.72cm
Styles
Credit line
Purchased with Art Fund support
Object history
Registered File number 1947/374. From the collection of Bernard Vuilleumier.
Bibliographic reference
Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
T.193-1948

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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