Jacket, sleeveless, for a woman (kanjian), silk damask; embroidering in silk threads; crocheted silk, jade, China, Qing dynasty (1644-1911), 1880-1910

Sleeveless jacket for a woman (kanjian). Waist length sleeveless garment of the type were worn by both Han and Manchu women, fastening at the side and cut away on one side at waist level. The ground is of yellow/green self-patterned silk and this is embroidered in polychrome silk thread with flowers and butterflies in satin stitch and seed stitch. The garment has three rows of edging - one embroidered in blues and white, one a loom woven narrow ribbon and the third of plain black satin. It is lined with mid-blue self patterned silk. There are five closures in the form of black satin loops with four buttons covered in red silk crochet and one of white jade.

Given by HM Queen Mary

This hip-length sleeveless jacket for a woman (kanjian) features an L-shaped pipa overlapping closure. There are five closures in the form of black satin loops, with one button of white jade and four buttons covered in red silk crochet, matching the colour of the embroidered peonies.
The technique of crochet, a form of lace worked with a hook and a continuous thread, was introduced to China by Christian missionaries, who trained orphaned children in needlework skills to help them earn a living as tailors or teachers. Crocheted buttons were popular in Europe and the United States from about 1860 to 1915.

CIRC.33-1936