Dragon robe for a nobleman, of tapestry-weave silk (kesi) and metallic threads, China, 1730-50

Dragon robe for a nobleman, made of kesi, tapestry-woven in coloured silks and gilt-paper wrapped threads, tinted with dyes in highlighting details of the decorative motifs.
The woven patterns on the front and the back of the body are the same.
The upper part has three blue dragons pursuing flaming pearls, bats, conventional cloud-ornament, stems of flowers, and seven of the eight Buddhist emblems.
From either side of the robe, peach trees can be seen growing from the highest rocks and from others grow narcissus and fungus.
Amid the waves are stems of flowers, the heart of some of them being the yin-yang symbol.
The collar and cuffs have edgings of brocaded silk and patterns in gilt-paper thread on a dark blue satin ground. The forearms of the sleeves are of pleated dark blue silk.
The pattern of the collar and cuffs is composed of dragons pursuing flaming magic jewels, bats, clouds, rocks and waves upon whose surface float pearls, cash, lozenges, red coral, and other symbolical objects. The brocade edging is ornamented with a floral and foliated pattern.
Lined with pale blue silk damask. There is a interlining made of yellow silk.
Four slits, two on sides and two on central front and back.
There are four brass buttons for fastening.

Purchased from Mrs. Olga Julia Wegener (22 Eosemacjerstrasse, Berlin, W.), accessioned in 1910. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Asia Department registers, as part of a 2022 provenance research project.
There are seven of the eight Buddhist emblems of Happy Augury (Pa Chi-hsiang), i.e. the wheel (lun), the couch shell (Lo), the state umbrella (san), the lotus-flower (hua), the vase (p'ing), the pair of fish (yu), the "entrails" or endless knot (chang)

Men in the imperial family wore dragon robes on festive occasions. The name comes from the large dragons central to their design, though the robes also feature other auspicious symbols. This one is made of a tapestry-weave silk known as kesi. As this type of fabric is fragile, the tailor added a yellow silk interlining to provide additional support.

T.272-1910