Daoist ritual robe, satin-weave silk; embroidering with metallic thread, seed pearls; lined with figured damask, China, Qing dynasty, 1800-1900

Daoist ritual robe (jiangyi) of blue satin with a black satin border, embroidered with coloured silks and gold thread and small seed pearls.

The robe has straight sides and wide openings for arms. It has a slightly curved hem-line. There are no seams but the garment is joined at intervals. The robe opens down the centre front and has gilt buttons and loops for fastening. It has a small stand-up collar and is lined with yellow figured damask.

The borders are embroidered with dragons, tigers, white cranes, yin-yang symbols and lotuses. The bottom border has the ‘Eight Trigrams’, each symbol being carried by a human figure. All of these are enclosed in narrow fretwork borders. There is a pagoda in the centre of the back, with a bearded priest with an acolyte on each side.

The six figures on each side represent the twelve divisions of the Lamaist school. There are sun and moon ornaments on the shoulders and dragons and cloud forms, pagodas and cranes scattered about the ground. The lower hem has a border of alternating long and short tassels.

Bequeathed by Mr W. Llewellyn Jones

From a Daoist temple under Imperial patronage.

This voluminous robe is richly embroidered with decorative motifs that symbolise the heavenly cosmos. It is known as a ‘robe of descent’. Deities would ‘descend’ on the
Daoist priest wearing the robe, empowering him during a ceremony.

T.755-1950