chapan
Outer Coat
ca. 1873 (made)
ca. 1873 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
An affluent man in Yarkand (today Shache county in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region) would have worn this pale-green outer coat (chapan), over another eye-catching silk robe on special occasions. The chapan was the standard robe for outdoor wear, worn by both men and women in urban areas of Xinjiang. The cut shows a strong Central Asian influence, with a front opening without fastening, and long, narrow sleeves to cover the hands as a sign of respect.
The coat was remade from a festive robe made for a Manchu court lady. The alternation includes the removal of the side-fastening overlap across the front, and lengthening of the sleeves. The added lengths were embroidered in a similar style to the original, with fruiting branches and floral sprays, but in chain-stitch, rather than the satin-stitch embroidery of China. The neckline and cuffs are applied with external facings embroidered with butterflies, pomegranates and peonies in coloured silks on a couched gold thread background, adding rigidity and opulence. All of the edgings have been finished with floral motifs in silk ribbons.
The coat was remade from a festive robe made for a Manchu court lady. The alternation includes the removal of the side-fastening overlap across the front, and lengthening of the sleeves. The added lengths were embroidered in a similar style to the original, with fruiting branches and floral sprays, but in chain-stitch, rather than the satin-stitch embroidery of China. The neckline and cuffs are applied with external facings embroidered with butterflies, pomegranates and peonies in coloured silks on a couched gold thread background, adding rigidity and opulence. All of the edgings have been finished with floral motifs in silk ribbons.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Title | chapan (generic title) |
Materials and techniques | Twill-weave silk; embroidery in silk and metallic threads |
Brief description | Outer coat for a man (chapan), twill-weave silk; embroidery in silk and metallic threads, from Shache (Yarkand), Xinjiang, China, ca. 1873 |
Physical description | Upper robe for a man of green twill-weave silk, embroidered with fruiting branches and floral sprays in coloured silks and gold threads. |
Dimensions |
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Gallery label |
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Object history | Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. Part of an ethnological collection acquired by Sir Thomas Douglas Forsyth from Yarkand (Shache in Chinese) in 1873-4. |
Summary | An affluent man in Yarkand (today Shache county in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region) would have worn this pale-green outer coat (chapan), over another eye-catching silk robe on special occasions. The chapan was the standard robe for outdoor wear, worn by both men and women in urban areas of Xinjiang. The cut shows a strong Central Asian influence, with a front opening without fastening, and long, narrow sleeves to cover the hands as a sign of respect. The coat was remade from a festive robe made for a Manchu court lady. The alternation includes the removal of the side-fastening overlap across the front, and lengthening of the sleeves. The added lengths were embroidered in a similar style to the original, with fruiting branches and floral sprays, but in chain-stitch, rather than the satin-stitch embroidery of China. The neckline and cuffs are applied with external facings embroidered with butterflies, pomegranates and peonies in coloured silks on a couched gold thread background, adding rigidity and opulence. All of the edgings have been finished with floral motifs in silk ribbons. |
Other number | 13074 - India Museum Slip Book |
Collection | |
Accession number | 2157(IS) |
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Record created | June 25, 2009 |
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