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chapan

Outer Coat
ca. 1873 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

An affluent man in Yarkand (today Shache county in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region) would have worn this pale-green outer coat (chapan), over another eye-catching silk robe on special occasions. The chapan was the standard robe for outdoor wear, worn by both men and women in urban areas of Xinjiang. The cut shows a strong Central Asian influence, with a front opening without fastening, and long, narrow sleeves to cover the hands as a sign of respect.
The coat was remade from a festive robe made for a Manchu court lady. The alternation includes the removal of the side-fastening overlap across the front, and lengthening of the sleeves. The added lengths were embroidered in a similar style to the original, with fruiting branches and floral sprays, but in chain-stitch, rather than the satin-stitch embroidery of China. The neckline and cuffs are applied with external facings embroidered with butterflies, pomegranates and peonies in coloured silks on a couched gold thread background, adding rigidity and opulence. All of the edgings have been finished with floral motifs in silk ribbons.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Titlechapan (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Twill-weave silk; embroidery in silk and metallic threads
Brief description
Outer coat for a man (chapan), twill-weave silk; embroidery in silk and metallic threads, from Shache (Yarkand), Xinjiang, China, ca. 1873
Physical description
Upper robe for a man of green twill-weave silk, embroidered with fruiting branches and floral sprays in coloured silks and gold threads.
Dimensions
  • Height: 140cm
  • Width: 194cm
Gallery label
Upper Coat for a man
Embroidery on twill weave silk.
Yarkand; 19th century.
2157(I.S.)
Collected by Sir Douglas Forsyth, and given by him in 1875.

Originally styled as a Manchu lady's robe, this garment was re-tailored to become and upper coat for a man. The side-fastening overlap across the front was removed and various alterations were made, such as the lengthening of the sleeves. The added lengths were embroidered in a similar style, with fruiting branches and floral sprays, but in the chain-stitch and not the satin-stitch embroidery of China.
Object history
Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. Part of an ethnological collection acquired by Sir Thomas Douglas Forsyth from Yarkand (Shache in Chinese) in 1873-4.
Summary
An affluent man in Yarkand (today Shache county in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region) would have worn this pale-green outer coat (chapan), over another eye-catching silk robe on special occasions. The chapan was the standard robe for outdoor wear, worn by both men and women in urban areas of Xinjiang. The cut shows a strong Central Asian influence, with a front opening without fastening, and long, narrow sleeves to cover the hands as a sign of respect.
The coat was remade from a festive robe made for a Manchu court lady. The alternation includes the removal of the side-fastening overlap across the front, and lengthening of the sleeves. The added lengths were embroidered in a similar style to the original, with fruiting branches and floral sprays, but in chain-stitch, rather than the satin-stitch embroidery of China. The neckline and cuffs are applied with external facings embroidered with butterflies, pomegranates and peonies in coloured silks on a couched gold thread background, adding rigidity and opulence. All of the edgings have been finished with floral motifs in silk ribbons.
Other number
13074 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
2157(IS)

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
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