Wide legged 'mashru' trousers were fashionable female dress in Northern India during much of the 19th century. Unlike the tapering cut of the pyjama, these huge trousers have wide, straight legs, joined by a triangular insert to provide expansion. 'Mashru' is a satin weave cloth with a combination of a cotton weft and silk warp, the cotton weft being the lower layer in contact with the skin. The fabric was originally woven for Muslim men who were prohibited from wearing pure silk. 'Mashru' (meaning 'permitted' in Arabic) was woven all over India, though it survives today mainly in Gujarat.

The warp is a series of yarns extended lengthwise in a loom and crossed by the weft. Ikat is a type of weaving where the threads are tie-dyed before weaving to create designs on the finished fabric. The dyeing process begins with binding the resist areas with impermeable yarn or rubber bands. The precision of the wrapping determines the clarity of the design. After wrapping, the threads are dyed, however, the areas under the ties will remain the original colour. Numerous colours can be added after additional wrappings. When the dying process is complete, the warp threads are meticulously arranged on the loom to prepare the design. The natural movement during weaving gives ikat designs it characteristic feathered edge. Techniques with matching patterns on warp and weft are called double ikat.