Not currently on display at the V&A

Costume Doll

ca. 1867 (made)
Place of origin

Costume doll representing a begum (lady) of Lucknow. Unindentified armature and stuffing covered in cotton fabric. Dressed in (wide legged trousers (farshi paijama) of orange silk with white zigzag stripes in ikat. Trimmed with green satin, silver gota, metal-wrapped thread and sequins. Drawstring (ezarband) of green ribbon with silver gota and tinsel tassels. Bodice of yellow silk and metal strip in diamond pattern with gota collar trim, with lower section and back of blue net trimmed with gota. Large head cover of magenta silk with brocaded medallions in silver-gilt wrapped thread draped around shoulders and body. Trimmed with green satin borders embellished with twisted gota, sequins, domed sequins (katori), glass beads and metal-wrapped thread, with deep end borders (pallu) with three buta motifs in folded gota work. Face with embroidered eyes, eyebrows, tilak mark and mouth. Hair of black cotton with long braid twisted with gota. Hair ornament of coiled metal, sequins, crimped metal strip and glass bead on top of the head, and two of pearls hanging from the sides of the head. One with large metal pendant with seed pearls, glass beads and a large glass 'diamond' in the centre, the other missing. Two fish-shaped gold coloured metal earrings hanging from the ears, with pearls and gold beads attached to the upper ears. Necklace of seed pearls with a central green glass 'emerald'. Remnants of adhesive on head, neck, chest and hands indicating missing jewellery. Bracelets of black fabric with crimped mtal strip on both wrists. Flower of gota work and crimped metal strip and a sequin with purple silk stem held in the right hand. Fingers tipped with red fabric.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Brief description
Costume doll representing a begum (lady) of Lucknow, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, c.1867; Textiles; Dolls
Physical description
Costume doll representing a begum (lady) of Lucknow. Unindentified armature and stuffing covered in cotton fabric. Dressed in (wide legged trousers (farshi paijama) of orange silk with white zigzag stripes in ikat. Trimmed with green satin, silver gota, metal-wrapped thread and sequins. Drawstring (ezarband) of green ribbon with silver gota and tinsel tassels. Bodice of yellow silk and metal strip in diamond pattern with gota collar trim, with lower section and back of blue net trimmed with gota. Large head cover of magenta silk with brocaded medallions in silver-gilt wrapped thread draped around shoulders and body. Trimmed with green satin borders embellished with twisted gota, sequins, domed sequins (katori), glass beads and metal-wrapped thread, with deep end borders (pallu) with three buta motifs in folded gota work. Face with embroidered eyes, eyebrows, tilak mark and mouth. Hair of black cotton with long braid twisted with gota. Hair ornament of coiled metal, sequins, crimped metal strip and glass bead on top of the head, and two of pearls hanging from the sides of the head. One with large metal pendant with seed pearls, glass beads and a large glass 'diamond' in the centre, the other missing. Two fish-shaped gold coloured metal earrings hanging from the ears, with pearls and gold beads attached to the upper ears. Necklace of seed pearls with a central green glass 'emerald'. Remnants of adhesive on head, neck, chest and hands indicating missing jewellery. Bracelets of black fabric with crimped mtal strip on both wrists. Flower of gota work and crimped metal strip and a sequin with purple silk stem held in the right hand. Fingers tipped with red fabric.
Dimensions
  • Height: 30cm
  • Width: 14cm (max width of doll alone)
Object history
Transferred from the India Museum in 1879. Slip book entry 5851: 'Dressed Doll / Benares, Bengal / Price Rs. 10 / 1867 / Original nos. 4280 / costume of a Begum of Lucknow'.
Associated objects
Other number
5851 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
6864(IS)

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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