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Not currently on display at the V&A

Jacket

ca. 1855-1879 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Choli or bodice, blue cotton with dark yellow border striped with pink and blue, the bodice and sleeves are decorated with mica printed onto gum, in flower heads which contain centres of cut mirror pieces. There are decorative silk borders, and on the back of the bodice is a central star-shaped flower design surrounded by mirror flowers.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven cotton and silk, block printed with gum overlaid with mica, cut mirror pieces
Brief description
Textile, jacket, blue cotton and silk, mica, mirror glass, Satara, ca. 1855
Physical description
Choli or bodice, blue cotton with dark yellow border striped with pink and blue, the bodice and sleeves are decorated with mica printed onto gum, in flower heads which contain centres of cut mirror pieces. There are decorative silk borders, and on the back of the bodice is a central star-shaped flower design surrounded by mirror flowers.
Dimensions
  • Back of neck to hem length: 28cm
  • Wrist to wrist width: 94cm
Gallery label
EMBELLISHMENT Both natural and man-made products are used to decorate textiles in India. Mirror-work (associated with western India and Pakistan) is perhaps the best known. Embroiderers also sew the wing-cases of ‘jewel beetles’ (Bupestridae) on to fabric to dazzling effect. European glass beads are used to embellish garments and household objects, while minerals such as mica can be ground up and printed with adhesive onto fabric. Mica-printed jacket Cotton, mirror-work and adhesive-printed mica powder Satara, Maharashtra, about 1855 V&A: 6558 (IS) Mirror-work choli (bodice) Cotton embroidered with silk and mirror-work Kutch, Gujarat, about 1900 Given by Mrs A.R. Ditmas. V&A: IS.55-1957 Hat Cotton with glass beads Chennai, Tamil Nadu, about 1855 V&A: 0345 (IS) Border for a dress Cotton muslin with beetle wing-cases and gilded silver Possibly Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh/Telangana, about 1850 Given by Mrs Mary Gordon. V&A: IS.486-1992(03/10/2015-10/01/2016)
Object history
Transferred from India Museum 1879. Slip book entry 4014: 'Woman's Jacket / Choolee / Satara / 55 / Cotton with Silk ends ornamented with Glass'.
Historical context
Intended for use as a garment, clothing.
Subject depicted
Other number
4014 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
Accession number
6558(IS)

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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