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Jacket

ca. 1852-54 (made)
Artist/Maker
Unknown
Place of origin
Gujarat (made)

Red silk jacket, brocaded in gold-wrapped thread with formalised plants, silk buttons, an upright collar, silk and cotton lining of light green with a fine red, white and black stripe. The lapels, hem and collar are backed with yellow silk.

Object details

Categories
Textiles
Clothing
Parasol Foundation Trust Indian Textiles Cataloguing Project
India Museum
Object type
Jacket
Materials and techniques
Woven silk, gold-wrapped thread brocade
Silk (Textile)
Gold-Wrapped Thread
Woven
Brocaded
Brief description
Jacket, red silk brocaded with gold-wrapped thread design, probably Gujarat, ca. 1852-1854
Physical description
Red silk jacket, brocaded in gold-wrapped thread with formalised plants, silk buttons, an upright collar, silk and cotton lining of light green with a fine red, white and black stripe. The lapels, hem and collar are backed with yellow silk.
Dimensions
  • Back of collar to end length: 75cm
  • Wrist to wrist width: 107cm
Gallery label
(03/10/2015-10/01/2016)
MAN'S JACKET

This jacket’s lavish silk-and-gold fabric was probably made in Ahmedabad or Surat, the main weaving centres of Gujarat. Silk-and-gold textiles have been produced there for at least 500 years. On a richly coloured, glossy satin ground, these textiles typically have repeated motifs in metal-wrapped thread, often with a distinctive diagonal weave.

Silk (satin weave) with metal-wrapped thread brocading
Gujarat, probably Ahmedabad or Surat, 1852–4
Given to Lord Frederick FitzClarence by Maharaja Tukoji Rao Holkar II of Indore
V&A: 05578 (IS)
Object history
Presented to Lord FitzClarence by H. H. Maharaja Holkar (according to register description). Transferred from India Museum 1879. Slip book entry 3784: 'Brocaded Jacket / Kincob / Marhatta / H.H. Marajah Holkar to Lord FitzClarence in 1855, July 25th / Crimson and Gold Tunic'.
Historical context
Intended for use as a garment, clothing.
Bibliographic reference
Crill, Rosemary, Arts of Asia, vol. 45, no. 5, September - October 2015, "The Fabric of India" Exhibition, p.69, pl. 5.
Other number
3784 - India Museum Slip Book
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
Accession number
05578(IS)

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O475344/jacket-unknown/
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