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Image of Gallery in South Kensington

Peshwaz

late 18th century to early 19th century (made)
Place of origin
India (made)

Fine muslin ground with decoration in applied tinsel, spangles and foil. The peshwaz was made for a small wearer. The bodice portion is heavily embellished with wide bands of decoration around the sleeves, neck, hem, front-opening, and down the middle of the ground panels. The bands are made of silver-gilt, bordered by strips of green foil, with rows of blossoms in red foil and sequins. The same style of bands decorate the edges and hems of the skirt panels, and the wrists of the sleeves. The main ground of the sleeves and skirt is embellished with a motif of silver-gilt strip couched into four-petal blossoms, regularly divided by serrated rows of silver-gilt foil. A deep striped trim lines the inside bottom hem of the skirt.

Object details

Categories
Textiles
Clothing
Womenswear
Animals and Wildlife
India Museum
Court
Object type
Peshwaz
Materials and techniques
Muslin with applied tinsel, spangles and foil
Muslin
Metal-Strip
Foil
Embroidery
Brief description
Peshwaz (woman's court dress), muslin with applied tinsel, spangles and foil, Mughal empire or Deccan, late 18th or early 19th century; Textiles; Clothing; Women's Clothes
Physical description
Fine muslin ground with decoration in applied tinsel, spangles and foil. The peshwaz was made for a small wearer. The bodice portion is heavily embellished with wide bands of decoration around the sleeves, neck, hem, front-opening, and down the middle of the ground panels. The bands are made of silver-gilt, bordered by strips of green foil, with rows of blossoms in red foil and sequins. The same style of bands decorate the edges and hems of the skirt panels, and the wrists of the sleeves. The main ground of the sleeves and skirt is embellished with a motif of silver-gilt strip couched into four-petal blossoms, regularly divided by serrated rows of silver-gilt foil. A deep striped trim lines the inside bottom hem of the skirt.
Gallery label
(01/08/2017)
PESHWAZ
Muslin with applied tinsel, spangles and foil
Mughal empire or Deccan
Late 18th or early 19th century
5842(IS)

The peshwaz was a style of robe popular with women in the Mughal empire. Though usually associated with Muslim women, it was also fashionable in northern Hindu courts. Few historic peshwaz survive as, like this rare example, they were often made of fragile sheer fabrics. Worn over patterned paijama trousers, the skirt opened at the front allowing free movement.
(00/00/0000 - 29/06/1995)
Woman's Dress
Muslin, with applique tinsel, spangles and beetlewings
Mughal
Late 18th or early 19th century
The dress is open at the front and would have been worn over thin trousers.
5842(IS)
(03/10/2015-10/01/2016)
WOMAN'S PESHWAZ

A peshwaz is a long, front-opening robe made of fine muslin, sometimes extravagantly decorated like this example. The peshwaz was the usual dress of Muslim court ladies from the pre-Mughal period onwards. It was often worn over trousers and a bodice, and the outfit would be completed by a large head-cover or shawl.

Cotton with coloured metal foil, gilded silver strips and sequins
Northern India, 1800-50
V&A: 5842 (IS)
Bibliographic references
  • The Indian Heritage. Court life and Arts under Mughal Rule London: The Victoria and Albert Museum, 1982 Number: ISBN 0 906969 26 3 p. 96, cat. no. 254, Veronica Murphy
  • The art of India and Pakistan, a commemorative catalogue of the exhibition held at the Royal Academy of Arts, London, 1947-8. Edited by Sir Leigh Ashton. London: Faber and Faber, [1950] p. 214, cat. no. 1019
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
Accession number
5842(IS)

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O470782/peshwaz/
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