Skirt thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Skirt

1900-1995 (made)
Place of origin

Tubular skirts and dresses are worn in many parts of Asia and elsewhere in the world. This one is from the Philippines, and is worn by women of the Maranao people of Mindanao, the southernmost island of the Philippines. The brilliant magenta and yellow bands, once the sole prerogative of royalty, are typical of the region, as are the tapestry-woven strips that join the pieces together horizontally and close the vertical seam. This technique, although woven by Muslim weavers in this case, appears to be a product of trade with China, where kesi, a similar technique, has a very long history. The designs on these tapestry-woven strips, however, reflect the Islamic love of geometric and stylized patterns rather than Chinese motifs.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Plain-weave silk with tapestry-weave strips
Brief description
Woman's tubular skirt, plain-weave silk with tapestry-weave panels, for the Maranao peple of Mindanao, Philippines, 1900-95
Physical description
Woman's tubular skirt (malong landap) of plain weave silk, with silk tapestry-woven panels in the middle.

The skirt is made up of panels of magenta and yellow silk machine-stitched together horizontally, with additional narrow bands of silk-tapestry patterned silk, and a wider slit-tapestry band added vertically down the front and the tube.
Dimensions
  • Width: 87.5cm
  • Length: 144cm
Summary
Tubular skirts and dresses are worn in many parts of Asia and elsewhere in the world. This one is from the Philippines, and is worn by women of the Maranao people of Mindanao, the southernmost island of the Philippines. The brilliant magenta and yellow bands, once the sole prerogative of royalty, are typical of the region, as are the tapestry-woven strips that join the pieces together horizontally and close the vertical seam. This technique, although woven by Muslim weavers in this case, appears to be a product of trade with China, where kesi, a similar technique, has a very long history. The designs on these tapestry-woven strips, however, reflect the Islamic love of geometric and stylized patterns rather than Chinese motifs.
Bibliographic references
  • Dress in detail from around the world / Rosemary Crill, Jennifer Wearden and Verity Wilson ; with contributions from Anna Jackson and Charlotte Horlyck ; photographs by Richard Davis, drawings by Leonie Davis. London: V&A Publications, 2002 Number: 1851773770 (hbk), 1851773789 (pbk) pp.110-111 ill.
  • Maxwell, R. Textiles of Southeast Asia, OUP, 1990, p.342 for a similar piece
  • Miller, Lesley Ellis, and Ana Cabrera Lafuente, with Claire Allen-Johnstone, eds. Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion. London: Thames & Hudson Ltd in association with the Victoria and Albert Museum, 2021. ISBN 978-0-500-48065-6. This object features in the publication Silk: Fibre, Fabric and Fashion (2021)
Collection
Accession number
IS.40-1997

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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