Tailored jackets for both men and women were introduced into the islands of South-East Asia with the spread of Islam, although the shape of this twentieth-century kebaya also shows some Western influence in its waisted shape and decorative edging. Jackets like this are traditionally worn particularly by Javanese and Malay women. Lace was a favourite edging material, but here this has been emulated in an elaborate cut-out and embroidered openwork design which is perfect for the airy coolness of tropical dress. The kebaya is often worn over a simple breast-cloth and is traditionally fastened with a set of three decorative brooches down the front, which draw the two edges together, with the long front panels hanging down over a wrapped sarong.