Not on display

Phulkari

c.1881-2 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Phulkari ('flower work') was produced in northern India, particularly in the Punjab, where Caspar Purdon Clarke acquired his examples. Designs are embroidered onto evenly woven cotton cloth (khadi, khaddar) usually dyed terracotta red or indigo blue. Narrow strips of cloth are often joined together to make the whole piece. Untwisted soft floss silk (heer, pat) is used, mostly yellow and white, which reflects the light, lending a lustrous appearance to the finished piece. There are different types of phulkari work. Some leave parts of the cloth empty as part of the design. Hindu pieces usually include images of figures and animals; Muslim and Sikh work have geometric designs. In the type known as bagh ('garden', 'ground'), almost the whole surface of the cloth is covered with patterns done in surface darning stitch. Double running stitch was used for other designs, and a variety of additional stitch types added. Phulkari was made for everyday clothes and especially for ceremonial wear at weddings and festivals. Each type has a special name, such as Bagh, Chope, Sainchi, Darshan Dar, Vari da Bagh. Shishadar or sheesh bagh incorporates mirror work.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Woven cotton, embroidered with floss silks
Brief description
Woman's headcover, cotton embroidered with floss silks, Amritsar, Punjab, c.1881-2
Physical description
Garment piece of joined strips of cotton, phulkari work, dyed dark red and embroidered with floss silks in gold, white and green, in a vertical design of flowering plants. Complete piece.
Dimensions
  • Length: 271cm
  • Width: 166cm
Object history
1883 Register Entry: DRESS PIECE, "PHULKARI." Dark red cotton embroidered with yellow, green, and white silk. A mritzar, Punjab. Modern. L. 8 ft. 11 in., W. 5 ft. 7 in. 478. (I.S.) 1883.
Historical context
Intended for use as garment, clothing.
Subject depicted
Summary
Phulkari ('flower work') was produced in northern India, particularly in the Punjab, where Caspar Purdon Clarke acquired his examples. Designs are embroidered onto evenly woven cotton cloth (khadi, khaddar) usually dyed terracotta red or indigo blue. Narrow strips of cloth are often joined together to make the whole piece. Untwisted soft floss silk (heer, pat) is used, mostly yellow and white, which reflects the light, lending a lustrous appearance to the finished piece. There are different types of phulkari work. Some leave parts of the cloth empty as part of the design. Hindu pieces usually include images of figures and animals; Muslim and Sikh work have geometric designs. In the type known as bagh ('garden', 'ground'), almost the whole surface of the cloth is covered with patterns done in surface darning stitch. Double running stitch was used for other designs, and a variety of additional stitch types added. Phulkari was made for everyday clothes and especially for ceremonial wear at weddings and festivals. Each type has a special name, such as Bagh, Chope, Sainchi, Darshan Dar, Vari da Bagh. Shishadar or sheesh bagh incorporates mirror work.
Collection
Accession number
IS.478-1883

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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