Bodice (Choli) of satin embroidered with silk threads, Kutch, 19th century

Bodice (Choli) of amber-coloured satin embroidered with red and dark blue silk threads, and inset with discs of mirror-glass (shishadar). The bodice is long enough to cover the breast. Open down the back, and tying at the top and bottom with strings. Short tubular sleeves with an inserted panel of plain brown cotton on the under arm. Worked all over with a scale pattern defined in blue, and within each scale are six glass discs outlined in red around a central disc outlined in blue.

Given by Lady Ratan Tata, York House, Twickenham

Navajbai Sett (1877- 1965), the younger daughter of Ardeshir Merwanji Sett, or Lady Ratan Tata gave the collection of her husband Sir Ratan Tata (1871- 1918) in 1920 to the V&A. The collection was distributed across the Indian Section and the then departments of architecture, ceramics, metalwork, paintings, textiles, and woodwork.

Sir Ratan Tata was a great art collector, and although he collected often to decorate the several residences he had in England, India and France, he also pursued his collecting interests specifically on these trips. He was interested in Chinese and Japanese works which he acquired in the countries as well as in European paintings, ceramics, and Indian textiles and crafts. Among the items acquired in 1920 were many that were housed at Sir and Lady Tata’s residence, York House in Twickenham. When Sir Ratan Tata died, the Executors of his estate offered his collection to the Prince of Wales Museum (now the CSMVS), Bombay (now Mumbai) in 1920. It was in the same year that she gave parts of the collection to the V&A.

Given by Lady Ratan Tata, York House, Twickenham. This acquisition information reflects that found in the Museum records (Asia Department registers and/or Central Inventory) as part of a 2023 provenance research project.

R.P. 1920-6471

IM.256-1920