Buyao thumbnail 1
Not on display

Buyao

Hairpin
1850-1875 (made)
Place of origin

This quivering hairpin was fashioned using the now lost craft of making artificial flowers by hand, a thriving industry in Yangzhou in the 18th century that employed thousands of workers, male and female. The flowers were made of paper derived from the pith of the plant, known as tongcao (Tetrapanax papyrifer), which was native to southern China and Taiwan. The white pith paper was thin, brittle and translucent; when damp, it became flexible and could be moulded into shapes that would remain after drying. It could also be easily to dyed to create realistic looking petals. Chinese women, regardless of their age and class, had a long tradition of wearing natural or artificial flowers. The fashion of wearing tongcao flowers was so popular that an imperial workshop was set up in 1723 to produce them exclusively for court use.

Object details

Categories
Object type
TitleBuyao (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Pith paper; brass
Brief description
Hairpin (buyao), pith paper; brass, China, Qing dynasty, 1850-75
Physical description
Hairpin (buyao) in the shape of three small flowers embedded in petals in a semi-circle form, made of pith paper, with brass pin.
Style
Object history
This object was lent by 'H.M. Commissioners for the Exhibition of 1851' to the South Kensington Museum (now the V&A) around 1872.
Summary
This quivering hairpin was fashioned using the now lost craft of making artificial flowers by hand, a thriving industry in Yangzhou in the 18th century that employed thousands of workers, male and female. The flowers were made of paper derived from the pith of the plant, known as tongcao (Tetrapanax papyrifer), which was native to southern China and Taiwan. The white pith paper was thin, brittle and translucent; when damp, it became flexible and could be moulded into shapes that would remain after drying. It could also be easily to dyed to create realistic looking petals. Chinese women, regardless of their age and class, had a long tradition of wearing natural or artificial flowers. The fashion of wearing tongcao flowers was so popular that an imperial workshop was set up in 1723 to produce them exclusively for court use.
Collection
Accession number
FE.48-2021

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
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