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Robe

ca. 1900 (made)
Place of origin
Lucknow (made)

This fine cotton robe is of the type called an angarkha, which is recognisable by its round neck combined with a circular panel over the chest. This example is from Lucknow in northern India, which was renowned for garments in the finest white cotton muslin and also for extremely finely worked white cotton embroidery called 'chikan' work. Here, the white cotton embroidery is combined with naturally golden tussar silk to provide highlights in the borders of the garment.

Object details

Categories
Clothing
Embroidery
Textiles
Object type
Robe
Materials and techniques
Cotton, embroidered with cotton and tussar silk thread
Brief description
Man's robe (angarkha), embroidered muslin, Lucknow, late 19th to early 20th century; Textiles; Clothing; Embroidery
Physical description
A man's robe of fine white cotton muslin with embroidery in white cotton thread and brownish tussar silk in stylised floral designs around the neck and edges. Cut in the angarkha style - a round neck with a panel with curved edges over the chest.
Dimensions
  • Length: 113cm
  • Maximum with arms outstretched width: 165cm
Gallery label
(01/08/2017)
YOUNG MAN’S ANGARKHA
Cotton, embroidered and appliquéd
Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh
19th century
IS.20-2008

The city of Lucknow was renowned for its garments of fine muslin, often combined with exquisite embroidery in white cotton (known as ‘chikan’ embroidery). These garments included shirts or kurtas, caps and women’s head-covers as well as elegant men’s robes like this one.
(00/00/000 - 14/06/2008)
Man's Garment (Angarkha)
Cotton, embroidered and applique
Lucknow
19th century
The city of Lucknow was renowned for its garments of fine muslin, often combined with exquisite embroidery in white cotton ('chikan' embroidery). These garments included shirts (kurtas), caps and women's head-covers as well as elegant men's robes like this one.
Summary
This fine cotton robe is of the type called an angarkha, which is recognisable by its round neck combined with a circular panel over the chest. This example is from Lucknow in northern India, which was renowned for garments in the finest white cotton muslin and also for extremely finely worked white cotton embroidery called 'chikan' work. Here, the white cotton embroidery is combined with naturally golden tussar silk to provide highlights in the borders of the garment.
Bibliographic references
  • Ashmore, Sonia. "Muslin", London, V&A Publishing, 2012. p. 76, p. 90, pl. 16.
  • India's fabled city : the art of courtly Lucknow / Stephen Markel with Tushara Bindu Gude ; and contributions by Muzaffar Alam ... [et al.]. Munich ;London: Prestel, Johann Gottlieb, c2010 Number: 9783791350752 (hbk.), 3791350757 (hbk.) cat. no. 101, p. 236 (detail)
Collection
South & South East Asia Collection
Accession number
IS.20-2008

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Record createdJune 25, 2009
Record URL
https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O438351/robe/
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