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zan

Hairpins
618-907 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

The Tang dynasty marked the high point in the crafting of gold and silver hair ornaments, with both the technique and style showing the influence of Persian and Sasanian silverware. These two hairpins (zan) have been beaten into shape from sheet silver. The finial decoration is in openwork: on one pin, a lion roars amid leaf scrolls; on the other, a flying bird is seen against a cross-pattern. Both motifs are surrounded by a border of half-palmettes, and further enhanced by the gilding of the pattern areas, a technique that also protects the silver surface from tarnishing.
As women’s hairstyles became higher and more sophisticated, new types of hair accessories were developed to dress them. Royal and aristocratic women wore buns of false hair decorated with an elaborate array of silver hairpins like these to dazzle and impress. Hairpins also became significantly larger, ranging from 20 to 35 cm (8 to 14 in.) in length. The number of hairpins worn was also indicative of the wearer's social status.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Hairpin
  • Hairpin
Titlezan (generic title)
Materials and techniques
Hand-beaten sheet silver, pierced, chased and parcel-gilt
Brief description
Hairpins (zan) with silver prongs and gilt heads, China, Tang dynasty (618-907)
Physical description
Silver hairpins with gilt heads. Single-pronged, with silver prongs and beaten plumes. Of sheet silver, gradually expanding upwards to a wide fan-mount shape, pierced, chased and gilt. One depicts a paradise flycatcher against a lattice background, the other depicts a lion against a foliage pattern; both are enclosed by floral border. Probably a pair.
Dimensions
  • Length: 21.3cm
  • Width: 9.6cm
Style
Credit line
Purchased with Art Fund support, the Vallentin Bequest, Sir Percival David and the Universities China Committee
Summary
The Tang dynasty marked the high point in the crafting of gold and silver hair ornaments, with both the technique and style showing the influence of Persian and Sasanian silverware. These two hairpins (zan) have been beaten into shape from sheet silver. The finial decoration is in openwork: on one pin, a lion roars amid leaf scrolls; on the other, a flying bird is seen against a cross-pattern. Both motifs are surrounded by a border of half-palmettes, and further enhanced by the gilding of the pattern areas, a technique that also protects the silver surface from tarnishing.
As women’s hairstyles became higher and more sophisticated, new types of hair accessories were developed to dress them. Royal and aristocratic women wore buns of false hair decorated with an elaborate array of silver hairpins like these to dazzle and impress. Hairpins also became significantly larger, ranging from 20 to 35 cm (8 to 14 in.) in length. The number of hairpins worn was also indicative of the wearer's social status.
Collection
Accession number
M.62&A-1935

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Record createdJuly 5, 2000
Record URL
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