Girl's Folk Costume
1875-1880 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
1. short blouse of white linen, with a round neck, and wrist-length inset sleeves with an underarm gusset. The garment opens the length of the front, fastening with two pairs of tying tapes, & has two holes (worked in buttonhole stitch in brown) for a ribbon or tape at the neck front, within a design of stylised flowers & the initials "NL" and "JD" embroidered in satin and stem stitches in black silks. The blouse is constructed from blocks of fabric, a traditional method which is economical with fabric and needs no pattern pieces.
2. bodice of violet sateen brocaded with a flower motif in purple & pale mauve, lined with white fleeced twill, & partly edged with purple & black printed velveteen braid. The bodice has a reverse keyhole-shaped deep neck & a black woollen waistband, & fastens at the waist front with metal hooks & eyes and a length of black cord with a bead at each end
3. rectangular stomacher of black velvet embroidered with a stylised floral design to match that on the skirt (4) worked in satin stitch in purple & blue silks, silver sequins, & red paste gems, & trimmed with violet & gold braid to match the apron (5) and block-patterned plush braid in khaki and shades of purple, ornamented with coloured tassels. The item is lined with cream wool, & would be worn tucked inside the bodice.
4. short double skirt of bright red wool with a brown velveteen waistband embroidered to match the stomacher (3) in purple & blue silks using satin stitch, silver sequins & red paste gems, with additional coloured beads; the hems are lined with a floral cotton print (red & russet on a dotted white ground). The underskirt hem is finished with a band of green twill; the overskirt has two inset pockets of white cotton, & the hem is finished with a band of jade green mercerised cotton. Both skirts are gathered to a panel of gauged red wool beneath the front & sides of the waistband, & the garment fastens at the back with metal hooks & eyes.
5. short apron, of black cotton striped in purple, finished with violet & gold braid to match that on the stomacher (3) at the top & upper sides. The apron is embroidered in satin and stem stitches at the upper sides with stylised floral motifs in purple, blue, white, russet & green, with "Nelli Jordan" worked beneath in purple silks, & a panel of gauging worked in purple silks between; the garment fastens at the back with tying strings of brown cotton tape.
6. rectangular printed silk shawl, the centre of magenta with a powdered floral motif, the border of écru printed with small geometrical and large floral motifs and enclosed within a narrow magenta edge.
7, 8. white cotton stockings, knitted in stocking stitch with a French heel and rounded toes; the tops are woven with the numerals "20" and the letters "NC", and stitched with "63" (?) in red cross stitch.
9. circular hat of natural straw with a partly inverted crown which is covered with a broad band of black ribbon, the inside partly lined with a glazed cotton print showing stylised flowers and foliage in red, blue, brown, green, yellow, mauve and white on a black ground. The brim is stiffened with a narrow wooden hoop around the inside, with bands of green-edged brown tape connecting the brim to the inside of the crown, which has tying strings of narrow black tape.
10. skull cap of red & black jacquard woven silk in a floral pattern, lined with cream wool, edged with topstitched broad black ribbon, and coming down into a point at the front; the nape is decorated with a large bow-like ornament with streamers, made of starched & pleated black cotton, and the cap fastens beneath the chin with tying strings of broad black ribbon.
11. rectangular handkerchief of white linen, embroidered in one corner with the letters "NL" and "JD" surrounded by sprays of stylised flowers embroidered in white, black & dark red using satin and stem stitches.
12. two streamers of magenta ribbon on a length of tape: the ribbon is patterned with a powdered design of a spray of flowers & foliage, woven in white & pale blue. The two lengths are mitred at one end each, both of which are connected by a length of narrow pink and white cotton tape.
13,14. two lengths of reversible braid (possibly to tie around the cuffs), woven in red patterned geometrically in blue, yellow and green with a picot edge.
15. necklace of spherical natural wood beads, ornamented at the back with a short length of brown petersham ribbon.
16. yoke (for carrying pails of milk), of russet-stained wood, with a curved and hollowed rectanguloid shoulder-piece, & tapering bars each painted black at the end & threaded with a length of chain finishing with a hook. 17. squared purse, hand crocheted in white cotton yarn, with a top flap fastening with a button through the lacy edging
Dimensions:
1. blouse: L (centre back) 40.5 cm
2. bodice: L (centre back) 29.25 cm
3. stomacher: 28.2 x 16.6 cm
4 . skirt: L (centre back) 49 cm
5. apron: L (centre) 46.75 cm
6. shawl: 70.5 x 74.7 cm
7, 8. stockings: L (foot) 22.2 cm; L (from heel upward) 55 cm
9. hat: (diameter) 27.7 cm
10. cap: D (front to back without bow decoration) 28 cm
11. handkerchief: 46 x 43 cm
12. ribbon streamers on a length of tape: total L 191cm
13, 14. two lengths of braid: 3 cm wide; L (13) 46 cm, (14) 47 cm
15. beads: L 64.2 cm (31.5 cm drop)
16. yoke: W 61.7 cm
17. purse: 13 x 15 cm (closed)
2. bodice of violet sateen brocaded with a flower motif in purple & pale mauve, lined with white fleeced twill, & partly edged with purple & black printed velveteen braid. The bodice has a reverse keyhole-shaped deep neck & a black woollen waistband, & fastens at the waist front with metal hooks & eyes and a length of black cord with a bead at each end
3. rectangular stomacher of black velvet embroidered with a stylised floral design to match that on the skirt (4) worked in satin stitch in purple & blue silks, silver sequins, & red paste gems, & trimmed with violet & gold braid to match the apron (5) and block-patterned plush braid in khaki and shades of purple, ornamented with coloured tassels. The item is lined with cream wool, & would be worn tucked inside the bodice.
4. short double skirt of bright red wool with a brown velveteen waistband embroidered to match the stomacher (3) in purple & blue silks using satin stitch, silver sequins & red paste gems, with additional coloured beads; the hems are lined with a floral cotton print (red & russet on a dotted white ground). The underskirt hem is finished with a band of green twill; the overskirt has two inset pockets of white cotton, & the hem is finished with a band of jade green mercerised cotton. Both skirts are gathered to a panel of gauged red wool beneath the front & sides of the waistband, & the garment fastens at the back with metal hooks & eyes.
5. short apron, of black cotton striped in purple, finished with violet & gold braid to match that on the stomacher (3) at the top & upper sides. The apron is embroidered in satin and stem stitches at the upper sides with stylised floral motifs in purple, blue, white, russet & green, with "Nelli Jordan" worked beneath in purple silks, & a panel of gauging worked in purple silks between; the garment fastens at the back with tying strings of brown cotton tape.
6. rectangular printed silk shawl, the centre of magenta with a powdered floral motif, the border of écru printed with small geometrical and large floral motifs and enclosed within a narrow magenta edge.
7, 8. white cotton stockings, knitted in stocking stitch with a French heel and rounded toes; the tops are woven with the numerals "20" and the letters "NC", and stitched with "63" (?) in red cross stitch.
9. circular hat of natural straw with a partly inverted crown which is covered with a broad band of black ribbon, the inside partly lined with a glazed cotton print showing stylised flowers and foliage in red, blue, brown, green, yellow, mauve and white on a black ground. The brim is stiffened with a narrow wooden hoop around the inside, with bands of green-edged brown tape connecting the brim to the inside of the crown, which has tying strings of narrow black tape.
10. skull cap of red & black jacquard woven silk in a floral pattern, lined with cream wool, edged with topstitched broad black ribbon, and coming down into a point at the front; the nape is decorated with a large bow-like ornament with streamers, made of starched & pleated black cotton, and the cap fastens beneath the chin with tying strings of broad black ribbon.
11. rectangular handkerchief of white linen, embroidered in one corner with the letters "NL" and "JD" surrounded by sprays of stylised flowers embroidered in white, black & dark red using satin and stem stitches.
12. two streamers of magenta ribbon on a length of tape: the ribbon is patterned with a powdered design of a spray of flowers & foliage, woven in white & pale blue. The two lengths are mitred at one end each, both of which are connected by a length of narrow pink and white cotton tape.
13,14. two lengths of reversible braid (possibly to tie around the cuffs), woven in red patterned geometrically in blue, yellow and green with a picot edge.
15. necklace of spherical natural wood beads, ornamented at the back with a short length of brown petersham ribbon.
16. yoke (for carrying pails of milk), of russet-stained wood, with a curved and hollowed rectanguloid shoulder-piece, & tapering bars each painted black at the end & threaded with a length of chain finishing with a hook. 17. squared purse, hand crocheted in white cotton yarn, with a top flap fastening with a button through the lacy edging
Dimensions:
1. blouse: L (centre back) 40.5 cm
2. bodice: L (centre back) 29.25 cm
3. stomacher: 28.2 x 16.6 cm
4 . skirt: L (centre back) 49 cm
5. apron: L (centre) 46.75 cm
6. shawl: 70.5 x 74.7 cm
7, 8. stockings: L (foot) 22.2 cm; L (from heel upward) 55 cm
9. hat: (diameter) 27.7 cm
10. cap: D (front to back without bow decoration) 28 cm
11. handkerchief: 46 x 43 cm
12. ribbon streamers on a length of tape: total L 191cm
13, 14. two lengths of braid: 3 cm wide; L (13) 46 cm, (14) 47 cm
15. beads: L 64.2 cm (31.5 cm drop)
16. yoke: W 61.7 cm
17. purse: 13 x 15 cm (closed)
Object details
| Category | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 17 parts. (Some alternative part names are also shown below)
|
| Materials and techniques | Linen, embroidered satin, cotton, woven straw, silk |
| Brief description | Girl's folk costume; Swiss, 1875-80 |
| Physical description | 1. short blouse of white linen, with a round neck, and wrist-length inset sleeves with an underarm gusset. The garment opens the length of the front, fastening with two pairs of tying tapes, & has two holes (worked in buttonhole stitch in brown) for a ribbon or tape at the neck front, within a design of stylised flowers & the initials "NL" and "JD" embroidered in satin and stem stitches in black silks. The blouse is constructed from blocks of fabric, a traditional method which is economical with fabric and needs no pattern pieces. 2. bodice of violet sateen brocaded with a flower motif in purple & pale mauve, lined with white fleeced twill, & partly edged with purple & black printed velveteen braid. The bodice has a reverse keyhole-shaped deep neck & a black woollen waistband, & fastens at the waist front with metal hooks & eyes and a length of black cord with a bead at each end 3. rectangular stomacher of black velvet embroidered with a stylised floral design to match that on the skirt (4) worked in satin stitch in purple & blue silks, silver sequins, & red paste gems, & trimmed with violet & gold braid to match the apron (5) and block-patterned plush braid in khaki and shades of purple, ornamented with coloured tassels. The item is lined with cream wool, & would be worn tucked inside the bodice. 4. short double skirt of bright red wool with a brown velveteen waistband embroidered to match the stomacher (3) in purple & blue silks using satin stitch, silver sequins & red paste gems, with additional coloured beads; the hems are lined with a floral cotton print (red & russet on a dotted white ground). The underskirt hem is finished with a band of green twill; the overskirt has two inset pockets of white cotton, & the hem is finished with a band of jade green mercerised cotton. Both skirts are gathered to a panel of gauged red wool beneath the front & sides of the waistband, & the garment fastens at the back with metal hooks & eyes. 5. short apron, of black cotton striped in purple, finished with violet & gold braid to match that on the stomacher (3) at the top & upper sides. The apron is embroidered in satin and stem stitches at the upper sides with stylised floral motifs in purple, blue, white, russet & green, with "Nelli Jordan" worked beneath in purple silks, & a panel of gauging worked in purple silks between; the garment fastens at the back with tying strings of brown cotton tape. 6. rectangular printed silk shawl, the centre of magenta with a powdered floral motif, the border of écru printed with small geometrical and large floral motifs and enclosed within a narrow magenta edge. 7, 8. white cotton stockings, knitted in stocking stitch with a French heel and rounded toes; the tops are woven with the numerals "20" and the letters "NC", and stitched with "63" (?) in red cross stitch. 9. circular hat of natural straw with a partly inverted crown which is covered with a broad band of black ribbon, the inside partly lined with a glazed cotton print showing stylised flowers and foliage in red, blue, brown, green, yellow, mauve and white on a black ground. The brim is stiffened with a narrow wooden hoop around the inside, with bands of green-edged brown tape connecting the brim to the inside of the crown, which has tying strings of narrow black tape. 10. skull cap of red & black jacquard woven silk in a floral pattern, lined with cream wool, edged with topstitched broad black ribbon, and coming down into a point at the front; the nape is decorated with a large bow-like ornament with streamers, made of starched & pleated black cotton, and the cap fastens beneath the chin with tying strings of broad black ribbon. 11. rectangular handkerchief of white linen, embroidered in one corner with the letters "NL" and "JD" surrounded by sprays of stylised flowers embroidered in white, black & dark red using satin and stem stitches. 12. two streamers of magenta ribbon on a length of tape: the ribbon is patterned with a powdered design of a spray of flowers & foliage, woven in white & pale blue. The two lengths are mitred at one end each, both of which are connected by a length of narrow pink and white cotton tape. 13,14. two lengths of reversible braid (possibly to tie around the cuffs), woven in red patterned geometrically in blue, yellow and green with a picot edge. 15. necklace of spherical natural wood beads, ornamented at the back with a short length of brown petersham ribbon. 16. yoke (for carrying pails of milk), of russet-stained wood, with a curved and hollowed rectanguloid shoulder-piece, & tapering bars each painted black at the end & threaded with a length of chain finishing with a hook. 17. squared purse, hand crocheted in white cotton yarn, with a top flap fastening with a button through the lacy edging Dimensions: 1. blouse: L (centre back) 40.5 cm 2. bodice: L (centre back) 29.25 cm 3. stomacher: 28.2 x 16.6 cm 4 . skirt: L (centre back) 49 cm 5. apron: L (centre) 46.75 cm 6. shawl: 70.5 x 74.7 cm 7, 8. stockings: L (foot) 22.2 cm; L (from heel upward) 55 cm 9. hat: (diameter) 27.7 cm 10. cap: D (front to back without bow decoration) 28 cm 11. handkerchief: 46 x 43 cm 12. ribbon streamers on a length of tape: total L 191cm 13, 14. two lengths of braid: 3 cm wide; L (13) 46 cm, (14) 47 cm 15. beads: L 64.2 cm (31.5 cm drop) 16. yoke: W 61.7 cm 17. purse: 13 x 15 cm (closed) |
| Marks and inscriptions | The blouse (1) and handkerchief (11) are embroidered with the initials "NLJD" (probably for Nellie Jordan's name separated into syllables); the apron (5) is embroidered with a Swiss version of her name "Nelli Jordan" |
| Credit line | Given by Delia Fuchs |
| Object history | The costume was given to the donor's grandmother (née Nellie Jordan circa 1870) the daughter of Emma Löwenthal and Albert Jordan: it was brought by her maternal relatives the Löwenthals of Aachen on a visit to her family in Manchester sometime between 1875 and 1880. |
| Production | Switzerland (prob Lucerne) |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | B.223-1996 |
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| Record created | April 19, 2000 |
| Record URL |
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