Ring Brooch
1850-1899 (made)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
Ring brooches were worn universally by men, women and children throughout Europe in the Middle Ages to hold their clothing together. They differ from modern brooches in the way they fasten. The wearer pulls the cloth of the garment through the central hole, and then spears it with the pin. The greater the strain on the pin, the more secure the fastening.
Ring brooches continued in use with traditional costume in many places in northern Europe up to the end of the 19th century or later, but Castellorizo is the only place south of the Alps where they survived. The people of Castellorizo grew rich in the 19th century from trading over vast distances, and the women’s costume and jewellery reflected this.
These voukles, meaning buckles, were made of gold, silver, silver-gilt, or plated metal, sometimes enamelled, as here, but always in the same filigree design, and were worn in sets of three or more down the front of the pekamiso (chemise). A small cross often hung from the lowest brooch.
Ring brooches continued in use with traditional costume in many places in northern Europe up to the end of the 19th century or later, but Castellorizo is the only place south of the Alps where they survived. The people of Castellorizo grew rich in the 19th century from trading over vast distances, and the women’s costume and jewellery reflected this.
These voukles, meaning buckles, were made of gold, silver, silver-gilt, or plated metal, sometimes enamelled, as here, but always in the same filigree design, and were worn in sets of three or more down the front of the pekamiso (chemise). A small cross often hung from the lowest brooch.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Materials and techniques | Silver decorated with applied filigree and turquoise enamel |
| Brief description | Flat silver filigree ring brooch with turquoise enamel decoration, Castellorizo (Greece), 1850-1899. |
| Physical description | Ring brooch made from a slightly convex circle of sheet silver decorated with applied filigree and green enamel. There are pyramids of granules round the rim. The tang is attached through a hole at the side of the central space. |
| Summary | Ring brooches were worn universally by men, women and children throughout Europe in the Middle Ages to hold their clothing together. They differ from modern brooches in the way they fasten. The wearer pulls the cloth of the garment through the central hole, and then spears it with the pin. The greater the strain on the pin, the more secure the fastening. Ring brooches continued in use with traditional costume in many places in northern Europe up to the end of the 19th century or later, but Castellorizo is the only place south of the Alps where they survived. The people of Castellorizo grew rich in the 19th century from trading over vast distances, and the women’s costume and jewellery reflected this. These voukles, meaning buckles, were made of gold, silver, silver-gilt, or plated metal, sometimes enamelled, as here, but always in the same filigree design, and were worn in sets of three or more down the front of the pekamiso (chemise). A small cross often hung from the lowest brooch. |
| Bibliographic reference | For examples, see:
Hatzimichali, Angeliki. ‘The Greek Folk Costume Volume 2: Costumes with the Kavadi’, Melissa Publishing House, Athens, 1999, ISBN 978-9602040508, p. 378. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | 4894-1901 |
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| Record created | June 24, 2009 |
| Record URL |
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