Ring thumbnail 1
Ring thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Ring

1802
Place of origin

From the early seventeenth to the end of the nineteenth century, testators left money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families. Simple bands enamelled with the name and life dates of the deceased were frequently made, sometimes set with a gemstone or a bezel set with a rock crystal covering a symbol such as a coffin or initials in gold wire. In the later 18th century, rings followed neo-classical designs, their oval bezels often decorated with the same designs as funerary monuments such as urns, broken pillars and mourning figures. Hair from the deceased was incorporated into the designs or set in a compartment at the back of the ring to give each jewel a uniquely personal element. Black or white enamel were favoured though white enamel was often, though not universally used to commemorate children and unmarried adults. By the end of the 19th century, memorial ring designs were becoming more standardised. The hoops were often inscribed with phrases such as 'In memory' whilst a commemorative inscription could be added to the inside of the hoop. The custom of giving rings as memorials gradually declined in the early 20th century, although the Goldsmiths Journal suggests that some were still being sold in the 1930s.

Mary Ann Goodhart (born Dettmar) was the child of German immigrants and married into another London German family. She was born in 1785, to George Dettmar and Catherine Letitia Dettmar (born Engel). Mary had 4 siblings: Charlotte Louisa Dettmar and 3 other siblings. She married Emanuel Goodhart on 16 July 1801, at St Mary's Leyton. Her husband Emanuel was born on April 17, 1772, in Middlesex, England and was the son of Emanuel Goodhart, an extremely rich London sugar refiner who had been born in Borcken, Hesse- Cassel, Germany and naturalized as British in 1784. Emanuel's father was also the founder of the Phoenix Assurance Company and the Pelican Life Office, two organisations set up to mitigate business and life risks. He served as Warden of the Worshipful Company of Grocers, Director of the Phoenix Fire Office, Warden of the Worshipful Company of Grocers and was also a magistrate. He was a sugar refiner at Horse Ferry Road, Limehouse, and Hooper square, Goodman's Fields but owned a large house outside London at Langley Park, Beckenham in Kent. The Dettmars, Goodharts and other families were part of the influx of German immigrants which followed the Hanoverian succession and the coronation of George I.

Mary Ann and Emanuel had one daughter: Mary Ann Charlotte Goodhart, who was born shortly before her mother's death in 1802 and died the following year. Mary's death at the age of 18 may have been the result of complications from her daughter's birth, as childbirth was one of the leading causes of female mortality.

The Goodharts' sugar refinery in Limehouse, London baked or refined the raw sugar which was being imported from the West Indies into sugar loaves. Their involvement with the sugar trade and the ownership of shares in the Sierra Leone company make it likely that their fortunes were linked to the enslavement of Black African people.

The border of cut jet around the bezel was appropriate for a mourning jewel. Mourning rules stipulated the avoidance of colourful gemstones, making pearls, jet, garnets or amethyst suitable for memorial jewels. The inscription is set against white enamel which was unusual for a married adult but may have been prompted by Mary's young age at death.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold, jet, enamel and hair.
Brief description
Memorial or mourning ring with wide gold hoop and circular bezel decorated with jet, a white enamel border is inscribed 'Mrs Mary Ann Goodhart, ob. 19 Oct. 1802, aet 18' and surrounds a panel of plaited hair. England, 1802.
Physical description
Wide plain gold hoop which expands to form a circular bezel. The outer edge of the bezel is set with small pieces of faceted jet, around a white enamel inscription reading 'Mrs Mary Ann Goodhart, ob. 19 Oct. 1802, aet 18'. The centre of the hoop is formed of a small central panel of plaited hair set under glass. The back of the hoop repeats the memorial inscription.
Dimensions
  • Height: 1.8cm
  • Width: 2.1cm
  • Depth: 2.2cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • Mrs Mary Ann Goodhart ob 19 Oct. 1802 ae 18
    Translation
    Mrs Mary Ann Goodhart died 19 October 1802 aged 18
  • London hallmarks for 1802-3, maker's mark HS
Object history
Part of a group of memorial and mourning jewels bought from Dr Marco Guastalla, acting on behalf of 'an English lady residing in Italy' (museum numbers 846-1888 to 989-1888). This group also includes the ring set with hair from jeweller Gabriel Wirgman and sugar refiner Thomas Garle as Emmanuel Goodhart was also a sugar refiner, they may have come from the same original source.

The will of Mary's father in law:
GOODHART, Emanuel - Will - summary of PRO PROB 11/1491, 1809
In the Name of God Amen. I Emanuel Goodhart of the Parish of Barking at Ilford Essex Gentleman ...
* To his three sons Jacob Goodhart, Emanuel Goodhart and Joseph Goodhart his freehold estate in St Ann's Middlesex consisting of a dwelling house two sugarhouses and sundry other messuages tenements and lands; and the residue of his household furniture, sugarhouse utensils, ready money and outstanding debts; and all his monies in public funds, plate, linen etc, except the following legacies, to be equally divided amongst them ... his estate with the sugarhouses to valued at £3000 and son Emanuel Goodhart to be given the refusal thereof.
* To son Jacob Goodhart 6 shares in Phoenix Fire Office and 5 shares in Pelican Life Office. Also 2 leasehold houses in Greenfield St, Whitechapel.
* To son Emanuel Goodhart 6 shares in Phoenix Fire Office and 5 shares in Pelican Life Office. Also 2 houses in Narrow St, St Ann's.
* To son Joseph Goodhart 8 shares in Phoenix Fire Office and 2 shares in Sierra Leon Company and 4 shares in Pelican Life Office. Also all his freehold lands messuages and tenements in Denmark St, St George's in the East.
* To each of his sons a leasehold house in Hackney Terrace, along with a field.
* To Jane Harson a leasehold house in West Ham for her life along with all the furniture in her bedroom, and the interest on £1000 at 5% for her life, and on her death the £1000 to go to Allis Goodhart his granddaughter.
* To John Helwig if living £50.
* To George Gaveller £10 and a mourning ring.
* To St Ann's Charity School for Girls £100.
* Appoints George Gaveller of St George's Sugar Refiner, his son Jacob Goodhart of St George's Sugar Refiner, his son Emanuel Goodhart of St George's Sugar Refiner and his son Joseph Goodhart of St George's Sugar Refiner as his executors.
Signed : Emanuel Goodhart 18 November 1804
Witnesses : George Wicke, Christopher Ringer, William Happin.

* To Samuel Weggen £20.
Signed and dated 8 January 1805

Proved at London with a codicil on 28 January 1809 by the oaths of all four executors to whom admon was granted.

[TNA PROB 11/1491 - copy of full original available at TNA Wills.]

## This will was registered at the Bank of England on 4 February 1809. Some monetary details were recorded but none for the many properties.
Emanuel Goodhart had 5 investment accounts ...
£9119.12.6 3% Consols @ 67 £6110.2.11
£1972.7.8 3% Reduced @ 68 £1538.9.2
£1800.0.0 4% Anns @ 83 £1494.0.0
£7000.0.0 5% Navy @ par £7000.0.0
£50.00 Imperial Anns @ 7½ £375.0.0
£16,517.12.1
... and this money was available to the executors.
It had been annotated in 1822, stating that both Joseph Goodhart and Jane Harson had died.

Summary
From the early seventeenth to the end of the nineteenth century, testators left money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families. Simple bands enamelled with the name and life dates of the deceased were frequently made, sometimes set with a gemstone or a bezel set with a rock crystal covering a symbol such as a coffin or initials in gold wire. In the later 18th century, rings followed neo-classical designs, their oval bezels often decorated with the same designs as funerary monuments such as urns, broken pillars and mourning figures. Hair from the deceased was incorporated into the designs or set in a compartment at the back of the ring to give each jewel a uniquely personal element. Black or white enamel were favoured though white enamel was often, though not universally used to commemorate children and unmarried adults. By the end of the 19th century, memorial ring designs were becoming more standardised. The hoops were often inscribed with phrases such as 'In memory' whilst a commemorative inscription could be added to the inside of the hoop. The custom of giving rings as memorials gradually declined in the early 20th century, although the Goldsmiths Journal suggests that some were still being sold in the 1930s.

Mary Ann Goodhart (born Dettmar) was the child of German immigrants and married into another London German family. She was born in 1785, to George Dettmar and Catherine Letitia Dettmar (born Engel). Mary had 4 siblings: Charlotte Louisa Dettmar and 3 other siblings. She married Emanuel Goodhart on 16 July 1801, at St Mary's Leyton. Her husband Emanuel was born on April 17, 1772, in Middlesex, England and was the son of Emanuel Goodhart, an extremely rich London sugar refiner who had been born in Borcken, Hesse- Cassel, Germany and naturalized as British in 1784. Emanuel's father was also the founder of the Phoenix Assurance Company and the Pelican Life Office, two organisations set up to mitigate business and life risks. He served as Warden of the Worshipful Company of Grocers, Director of the Phoenix Fire Office, Warden of the Worshipful Company of Grocers and was also a magistrate. He was a sugar refiner at Horse Ferry Road, Limehouse, and Hooper square, Goodman's Fields but owned a large house outside London at Langley Park, Beckenham in Kent. The Dettmars, Goodharts and other families were part of the influx of German immigrants which followed the Hanoverian succession and the coronation of George I.

Mary Ann and Emanuel had one daughter: Mary Ann Charlotte Goodhart, who was born shortly before her mother's death in 1802 and died the following year. Mary's death at the age of 18 may have been the result of complications from her daughter's birth, as childbirth was one of the leading causes of female mortality.

The Goodharts' sugar refinery in Limehouse, London baked or refined the raw sugar which was being imported from the West Indies into sugar loaves. Their involvement with the sugar trade and the ownership of shares in the Sierra Leone company make it likely that their fortunes were linked to the enslavement of Black African people.

The border of cut jet around the bezel was appropriate for a mourning jewel. Mourning rules stipulated the avoidance of colourful gemstones, making pearls, jet, garnets or amethyst suitable for memorial jewels. The inscription is set against white enamel which was unusual for a married adult but may have been prompted by Mary's young age at death.
Bibliographic references
  • John Burke; A genealogical and heraldic history of the commoners of Great Britain and Ireland, enjoying territorial possessions or high official rank; but univested with heritable honours, London, 1834, p.369
  • Oman, Charles, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1930, reprinted Ipswich, 1993, cat. 903
Collection
Accession number
882-1888

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
Download as: JSONIIIF Manifest