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Not currently on display at the V&A

Ring

1780-1800
Place of origin

From the early seventeenth to the end of the nineteenth century, testators left money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families. Simple bands enamelled with the name and life dates of the deceased were frequently made, sometimes set with a gemstone or a bezel set with a rock crystal covering a symbol such as a coffin or initials in gold wire. In the later 18th century, rings followed neo-classical designs, their oval bezels often decorated with the same designs as funerary monuments such as urns, broken pillars and mourning figures. Hair from the deceased was incorporated into the designs or set in a compartment at the back of the ring to give each jewel a uniquely personal element. Black or white enamel were favoured though white enamel was often, though not universally used to commemorate children and unmarried adults. By the end of the 19th century, memorial ring designs were becoming more standardised. The hoops were often inscribed with phrases such as 'In memory' whilst a commemorative inscription could be added to the inside of the hoop. The custom of giving rings as memorials gradually declined in the early 20th century, although the Goldsmiths Journal suggests that some were still being sold in the 1930s.

This ring may have been intended as a sentimental or a mourning ring, although the sombre tone perhaps suggests mourning is more likely. The hoop has been replaced at some point and covers the inscription which was on the back of the bezel, although the letters DP and EK can still be made out. The front of the bezel is set with a panel of plaited hair surrounded by imitation diamonds.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Engraved gold, hair and pastes.
Brief description
Memorial or mourning ring of gold with an octagonal bezel set with a panel of hair and surrounded by white pastes. England, c. 1780-1800.
Physical description
Gold ring with a flat hoop expanding towards engraved shoulders. The ring has an octagonal bezel surrounded by pastes. The centre of the bezel is set with a covered oval panel of plaited hair.
Dimensions
  • Diameter: 0.9in
Marks and inscriptions
Unmarked
Object history
Part of a group of memorial and mourning jewels bought from Dr Marco Guastalla, acting on behalf of 'an English lady residing in Italy' (museum numbers 846-1888 to 989-1888)
Summary
From the early seventeenth to the end of the nineteenth century, testators left money in their wills to have rings with commemorative inscriptions made and distributed to their friends and families. Simple bands enamelled with the name and life dates of the deceased were frequently made, sometimes set with a gemstone or a bezel set with a rock crystal covering a symbol such as a coffin or initials in gold wire. In the later 18th century, rings followed neo-classical designs, their oval bezels often decorated with the same designs as funerary monuments such as urns, broken pillars and mourning figures. Hair from the deceased was incorporated into the designs or set in a compartment at the back of the ring to give each jewel a uniquely personal element. Black or white enamel were favoured though white enamel was often, though not universally used to commemorate children and unmarried adults. By the end of the 19th century, memorial ring designs were becoming more standardised. The hoops were often inscribed with phrases such as 'In memory' whilst a commemorative inscription could be added to the inside of the hoop. The custom of giving rings as memorials gradually declined in the early 20th century, although the Goldsmiths Journal suggests that some were still being sold in the 1930s.

This ring may have been intended as a sentimental or a mourning ring, although the sombre tone perhaps suggests mourning is more likely. The hoop has been replaced at some point and covers the inscription which was on the back of the bezel, although the letters DP and EK can still be made out. The front of the bezel is set with a panel of plaited hair surrounded by imitation diamonds.
Bibliographic reference
Oman, Charles, Catalogue of rings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, 1930, reprinted Ipswich, 1993, cat. 901
Collection
Accession number
865-1888

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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