Full bertha collar of mixed bobbin and needle lace, 'Duchesse de Bruxelles'. The main pattern pieces are of course bobbin lace with raised edges formed either with a cordonnet or of bundles of thread. They are linked by bobbin-made bars. The shallow scallops of the lower edge follow the line of a series of narrow horizontally placed curved leaf-shapes from which depend flower heads and small leaves. Above each large curved leaf is a cartouche containing a spray of roses worked in 'point de gaze' needle lace, the main cartouches are linked by smaller ones filled with a diaper pattern of needle lace rings. The remainder of the ground up to the neck edge is filled with small floral sprigs of bobbin lace.