Not currently on display at the V&A

Dress Panel

1760-1765 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Dress panel of brocaded silk. The panel is woven with a pink textured ground and has a design of lace meanders which are intertwined with furry meanders, simulating leopard skin in black and cream silk. There are two repeats in the width of the material. The panel once formed part of a dress which had been altered later.

The ground has an additional flushing warp, forming a ribbed effect. Each flushing warp floats over 11 threads and is bound by the next three. The pattern is entirely brocaded. The ground of the lace meander is brocaded with red silk and the flowers in white silk and white silk frisé. The furry meander is carried out in several shades of buff silk and black. The brocaded wefts on the furry meander only are bound in 3/1 twill. Selvage is 0.375 inch wide, 0.19 inch plain pink tabby and 0.19 inch composed of 8 yellow silk cordonnets.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Brocaded silk
Brief description
Dress panel, brocaded silk, probably woven in Lyon, 1760-1765.
Physical description
Dress panel of brocaded silk. The panel is woven with a pink textured ground and has a design of lace meanders which are intertwined with furry meanders, simulating leopard skin in black and cream silk. There are two repeats in the width of the material. The panel once formed part of a dress which had been altered later.

The ground has an additional flushing warp, forming a ribbed effect. Each flushing warp floats over 11 threads and is bound by the next three. The pattern is entirely brocaded. The ground of the lace meander is brocaded with red silk and the flowers in white silk and white silk frisé. The furry meander is carried out in several shades of buff silk and black. The brocaded wefts on the furry meander only are bound in 3/1 twill. Selvage is 0.375 inch wide, 0.19 inch plain pink tabby and 0.19 inch composed of 8 yellow silk cordonnets.
Dimensions
  • Repeat length: 21.25in
  • Repeat width: 10.5in
  • Length: 119cm
  • Width: 53.8cm
  • Selvedge width: 0.375in
  • Length: 44.75in
  • Width: 21.25in
Measured by Conservation
Style
Credit line
Given by Mrs R. W. Cave-Orme
Object history
This silk was probably made in Lyon, the main centre of silk weaving in 18th-century Europe and the leader in fashion textiles of this type whose patterns changed seasonally. The pattern is similar to dated silk designs in the V&A collections, from the firm of L. Galy, Gallien et cie.

On the whole silks of this type were made by master weavers in small urban workshops to orders from merchant manufacturers. Weavers were unlikely to mount their looms unless they had an order of at least three dress lengths worth.

Given to the Museum by Mrs R. W. Cave-Orme in 1962.
RP 61/3223.
Associated object
Collection
Accession number
T.107-1962

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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