Afternoon Dress thumbnail 1
Afternoon Dress thumbnail 2
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Afternoon Dress

1937 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This afternoon dress by Gabrielle Chanel for CHANEL, from Spring Summer 1937 is made from alternating panels of delicate machine-made lace and tulle, the translucent fabrics and gracefully scalloped neckline giving the garment a lingerie feel. The combination of lace and other sheer fabrics was a Chanel signature during the 1930s. The dress originally had a large satin bow attached at the waist and a delicate tulle and lace cape designed to be draped around the shoulders, fixed at one side with a brooch. Chanel often paired her dresses with capes and fichus, as described by The Times: ‘triangular scarves of tulle and chiffon edged with lace go with picture-frocks’.
The dress was worn by Fern Bedaux at the wedding of the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson in June 1937. The ceremony took place at the home of Fern and Charles Bedaux, the Château de Candé, in the Loire Valley. Charles Bedaux, a wealthy French-American industrial consultant, was arrested in Algiers in 1944 and transported to America where he was charged with treason for collaboration with Nazi forces.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Dress
  • Belt
  • Handkerchief
Materials and techniques
Net and machine made lace
Brief description
Afternoon dress, belt and scarf of lace, designed by Coco Chanel, Paris, 1937
Physical description
Afternoon dress, belt and scarf all made of cream net and cream, machine made lace.
Production typeHaute couture
Gallery label
(September 2023)
[Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition, September 2023 - March 2024]

LIGHTNESS AND REFINEMENT

Lace was a favourite medium of Chanel’s for eveningwear. It remained a staple of her collections throughout the 1920s and 30s. In the French magazine L’Illustration in 1939, Chanel shared her thoughts: ‘I consider lace to be one of the prettiest imitations that has been made from the fantasies of nature . . . For me it evokes the incomparable designs that embroider the sky, the leaves and the branches of trees.’

Spring/Summer 1937
Lace and net
V&A: T.748 to B-1972
Bequeathed by Mrs Fern Bedaux
Credit line
Bequeathed by Mrs Fern Bedaux
Object history
Worn by the donor at the marriage of the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, which took place at the donor's home, Chateau de Candé in France, in June 1937.
Historical context
This object is part of the collection of Mrs Fern Bedaux, given to the museum by Miss E Hanley, the heiress and niece of Mrs Bedaux. Mrs Bedaux purchased her whole wardrobe regularly from Balenciaga and other couturiers and the collection was very large; some was kept by Miss Hanley, some send to the Costume Museum in Bath; and some was received by the V&A.

Mrs Bedaux was the very wealthy widow of American millionaire office systems pioneer Charles Bedaux. Mr and Mrs Bedaux lived in the sixteenth century Chateau de Candé in France. In June 1937, the Duke of Windsor married Wallis simpson at the Chateau, after his abdication as King Edward VIII in 1936. This dress is the one that Fern Bedaux wore to the ceremony.

A TV documentary entitled "The Champagne Safari", follows the Bedauxs and their entourage on an expedition through Canada. Charles Bedaux had some ties with the Nazi party and was a controversial figure.
Summary
This afternoon dress by Gabrielle Chanel for CHANEL, from Spring Summer 1937 is made from alternating panels of delicate machine-made lace and tulle, the translucent fabrics and gracefully scalloped neckline giving the garment a lingerie feel. The combination of lace and other sheer fabrics was a Chanel signature during the 1930s. The dress originally had a large satin bow attached at the waist and a delicate tulle and lace cape designed to be draped around the shoulders, fixed at one side with a brooch. Chanel often paired her dresses with capes and fichus, as described by The Times: ‘triangular scarves of tulle and chiffon edged with lace go with picture-frocks’.
The dress was worn by Fern Bedaux at the wedding of the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson in June 1937. The ceremony took place at the home of Fern and Charles Bedaux, the Château de Candé, in the Loire Valley. Charles Bedaux, a wealthy French-American industrial consultant, was arrested in Algiers in 1944 and transported to America where he was charged with treason for collaboration with Nazi forces.
Bibliographic reference
Cullen, Oriole and Karol Burks, Connie. "Gabrielle Chanel". London: V&A Publishing, 2023 p 178 This afternoon dress is made from alternating panels of delicate machine-made lace and tulle, the translucent fabrics and gracefully scalloped neckline giving the garment a lingerie feel. The combination of lace and other sheer fabrics was a Chanel signature during the 1930s. The dress originally had a large satin bow attached at the waist and a delicate tulle and lace cape designed to be draped around the shoulders, fixed at one side with a brooch. Chanel often paired her dresses with capes and fichus, as described by The Times: ‘triangular scarves of tulle and chiff on edged with lace go with picture-frocks’. The dress was worn by Fern Bedaux at the wedding of the Duke of Windsor and Wallis Simpson in June 1937. The ceremony took place at the home of Fern and Charles Bedaux, the Château de Candé, in the Loire Valley. Charles Bedaux, a wealthy French-American industrial consultant, was arrested in Algiers in 1944 and transported to America where he was charged with treason for collaboration with Nazi forces.
Collection
Accession number
T.748 to B-1972

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
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