Ensemble thumbnail 1
Not on display

Ensemble

ca. 1900 - ca. 1945 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

T.39-1963: linen robe with a rectangular panel on the chest embroidered in cross stitch with red, black, green, and purple silks. The panel is bordered with a repeating floral branch motif, and the slashed opening of the round neckline is bordered with 'Ayn el-Baqarah (eye of the cow) design. The rest of the panel is embroidered with various floral, feather, and geometric stepped patterns. The robe is straight, made in one piece, and slightly wider at the hem than at the top. It is caught up slightly at the waist at each side. The sleeves are triangular in shape with a very wide opening at the wrist.

T.39A-1963: rectangular veil of linen embroidered with red, black and green silks in cross stitch. Along the long sides are narrow borders with various designs including the 'Ollaiq (leech) motif and repeating borders of Reesh (feathers). Along the short sides are wide borders of sections of Nakhel 'Aali (tall palm) patterns separated at intervals by strips of lilies and another repeating geometric pattern. The centre is divided by narrow lines of various geometric motifs inlcuding Zanbaq (lillies) Tumm el-Sammakeh (snapdragon) and Qarnabeet (cauliflower) with large bird and flower-vase motifs in between, including Deeq (rooster), Wazz (geese), Quaret el-Sunbuleh (ears of corn), and Quwar (flower pot) designs. In the centre of the edge of one long side is worked with the word 'Râmallah', and on the other 'Jerusalem'. There is a fringe at each end of mauve, yellow, green and white cords ending in tassels.

T.39B-1963: sash of red silk woven with a patterned stripe in black, yellow, red and white, folded and padded. It is wider at the middle than the ends. At each end is a fringe of dark red silk cord and a tassel hanging from a red silk braid woven with a black chevron pattern.

T.39C-1963: head-dress consisting of a cap of red linen embroidered with geometric motifs in red, pink and yellow cross stitch. At the bottom of the back is a padded roll of red and white cotton and higher up is a white cord attached to two metal clips. Around the front is a padded horseshoe-shaped brim covered with white linen on which is mounted a row of metal tokens which closely overlap one another. The head-dress is lined with pink cotton striped with blue and white. Part of this lining extends under the brim to cover the forehead. This is decorated with a band of orange braid embroidered with bright colours in buttonhole stitch and with a hanging row of coins or tokens and three groups of two small tokens. There is a chin strap of linked metal rings from which hang three beads and a large token joined by metal links.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 4 parts.

  • Robe
  • Veil
  • Sash
  • Headdress
Materials and techniques
Embroidery with silks
Brief description
Ensemble, Palestine (Râmallah), ca. 1900 - ca. 1945
Physical description
T.39-1963: linen robe with a rectangular panel on the chest embroidered in cross stitch with red, black, green, and purple silks. The panel is bordered with a repeating floral branch motif, and the slashed opening of the round neckline is bordered with 'Ayn el-Baqarah (eye of the cow) design. The rest of the panel is embroidered with various floral, feather, and geometric stepped patterns. The robe is straight, made in one piece, and slightly wider at the hem than at the top. It is caught up slightly at the waist at each side. The sleeves are triangular in shape with a very wide opening at the wrist.

T.39A-1963: rectangular veil of linen embroidered with red, black and green silks in cross stitch. Along the long sides are narrow borders with various designs including the 'Ollaiq (leech) motif and repeating borders of Reesh (feathers). Along the short sides are wide borders of sections of Nakhel 'Aali (tall palm) patterns separated at intervals by strips of lilies and another repeating geometric pattern. The centre is divided by narrow lines of various geometric motifs inlcuding Zanbaq (lillies) Tumm el-Sammakeh (snapdragon) and Qarnabeet (cauliflower) with large bird and flower-vase motifs in between, including Deeq (rooster), Wazz (geese), Quaret el-Sunbuleh (ears of corn), and Quwar (flower pot) designs. In the centre of the edge of one long side is worked with the word 'Râmallah', and on the other 'Jerusalem'. There is a fringe at each end of mauve, yellow, green and white cords ending in tassels.

T.39B-1963: sash of red silk woven with a patterned stripe in black, yellow, red and white, folded and padded. It is wider at the middle than the ends. At each end is a fringe of dark red silk cord and a tassel hanging from a red silk braid woven with a black chevron pattern.

T.39C-1963: head-dress consisting of a cap of red linen embroidered with geometric motifs in red, pink and yellow cross stitch. At the bottom of the back is a padded roll of red and white cotton and higher up is a white cord attached to two metal clips. Around the front is a padded horseshoe-shaped brim covered with white linen on which is mounted a row of metal tokens which closely overlap one another. The head-dress is lined with pink cotton striped with blue and white. Part of this lining extends under the brim to cover the forehead. This is decorated with a band of orange braid embroidered with bright colours in buttonhole stitch and with a hanging row of coins or tokens and three groups of two small tokens. There is a chin strap of linked metal rings from which hang three beads and a large token joined by metal links.
Dimensions
  • Length: 1423mm (Note: Robe T.39-1963. Measured flat by textile conservation)
  • Sleeve cuff to sleeve cuff width: 1345mm (Note: Robe T.39-1963. Measured flat by textile conservation)
  • Bust circumference: 1210mm (Note: Robe T.39-1963. Measured flat by textile conservation)
  • Circumference at skirt hem circumference: 1960mm (Note: Robe T.39-1963. Measured flat by textile conservation)
  • Tassel end to tassel end length: 2485mm (Note: Sash T.39B-1963. Measured by textile conservation)
  • Fringe length at ends width: 230mm (Note: Sash T.39B-1963. Measured by textile conservation)
  • Sash body at widest part width: 70mm (Note: Sash T.39B-1963. Measured by textile conservation)
Credit line
Given by Mrs. J. H. H. Pollock
Object history
The ensemble was exhibited in the exhibition World of the Bible (Victoria and Albert Museum, 1 October - 28 November 1965).

Registered File number 1963/478
Collection
Accession number
T.39-1963

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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