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Cap (Headgear)

1840-1870 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A small cap of plain weave silk embroidered with silk in a detached needlelace stitch, straight stitches with couch cord, applique and a tablet-woven band, a panel of silk twill, lined with printed cotton, with a metal button.
This ia a very small bonnet-shaped cap; the maximum length falls around the face. Dark green silk forms the main part of the cap, a band going across the head, both sides are steeply angled along their back edge. The front edge is trimmed with a black and white tablet-woven band, a narrow black band with red applique and small embroidered motifs and a fine yellow, black and red applique band. A black silk cord is held in place with white stitches. Dark red silk forms a large zigzag along this panel with small snowflake-like motifs in white, yellow, dark red, light blue or black. Bands of red and black applique and the black and white cord decoraste a seam between this panel and those forming the back of the cap. These have been pieced and some pieces come from a similar panel to that at the front. The very back piece is undecorated green silk twill. There is a globular metal button at one end and two black cotton tapes from the sides. The cap is lined with two European printed cottons:
[1] at the front and through which some of the zigzag embroidery has been worked, red ground with red roses, green l;eaves with curving bands filled with red and green ovals and groups of three yellow botehs;
[2] at the back, pieced, striped cotton. Yellow with small green or blue botehs outlined in red, red stripe with a line of arches, solid stripes in green, red, yellow, white, brown and a red stripe with blue diagonal line.

Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
woven silk embroidered with silk and decorated with applique, applied braid and cord and lined with printed cotton.
Brief description
A Zoroastrian woman's cap or lachak, cotton with silk embroidery, probably Yazd, Iran, 1840-1870
Physical description
A small cap of plain weave silk embroidered with silk in a detached needlelace stitch, straight stitches with couch cord, applique and a tablet-woven band, a panel of silk twill, lined with printed cotton, with a metal button.
This ia a very small bonnet-shaped cap; the maximum length falls around the face. Dark green silk forms the main part of the cap, a band going across the head, both sides are steeply angled along their back edge. The front edge is trimmed with a black and white tablet-woven band, a narrow black band with red applique and small embroidered motifs and a fine yellow, black and red applique band. A black silk cord is held in place with white stitches. Dark red silk forms a large zigzag along this panel with small snowflake-like motifs in white, yellow, dark red, light blue or black. Bands of red and black applique and the black and white cord decoraste a seam between this panel and those forming the back of the cap. These have been pieced and some pieces come from a similar panel to that at the front. The very back piece is undecorated green silk twill. There is a globular metal button at one end and two black cotton tapes from the sides. The cap is lined with two European printed cottons:
[1] at the front and through which some of the zigzag embroidery has been worked, red ground with red roses, green l;eaves with curving bands filled with red and green ovals and groups of three yellow botehs;
[2] at the back, pieced, striped cotton. Yellow with small green or blue botehs outlined in red, red stripe with a line of arches, solid stripes in green, red, yellow, white, brown and a red stripe with blue diagonal line.
Dimensions
  • Maximum length: 24.5cm
  • Maximum width: 20cm
Gallery label
(31/08/2012)
Zoroastrian Woman’s Tunic, Trousers, Cap and Shawl
Yazd, Iran
About 1840–70

Like other religious minorities in Iran, Zoroastrians were required to dress to identify their religion. They wore brightly coloured clothing and did not usually veil their faces. This created an obvious contrast with the outdoor clothing worn by Muslim women. A Zoroastrian woman would typically wear a tunic (qamis), together with loose trousers (shalvar) gathered at the ankle. These trousers were made from textile remnants because there were restrictions on Zoroastrians buying full widths of fabric. Women covered their heads with a small fitted cap (lachak), over which they would wrap several shawls around their head and shoulders.

Cotton plain weave with silk embroidery

Museum nos. IS.9, 9A, 9B, 9C-1954
Production
Zoroastrian
Collection
Accession number
IS.9C-1954

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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