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Gown

1750s (weaving), 1780 - 1785 (sewing), 1879 - 1900 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A woman's gown of ivory silk, figured in a pattern of medallions with a central 'X' and brocaded in floral wreaths with shades of green, blue, purple and pink. The gown is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves with shaped, ruched cuffs. The bodice and skirt were cut separately and seamed at the waist. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The back is made of four shaped pieces, tapering to a point below the centre back waist. The skirt is made of 3 widths of silk with a partial panel and triangular gore of silk on each side of the front. The skirt is flat pleated into the waist, and held in place with stitching below the seam. The front edges of the skirt are scalloped and pinked. A line of pinked, box-pleated silk runs down each front edge of the skirt. The upper and lower edges of the sleeve cuffs are pinked and scalloped. Linen tapes on the inside back waist correspond to silk-covered buttons on the outside, for looping up the skirts.

The gown was probably first made in the English (tight-back) style and then remade in the early 1780s, perhaps for another wearer. The skirts are pieced and the ruched cuffs converted from sleeve ruffles.

The gown was altered for fancy dress in the late 19th century. A dart was sewn (now unpicked) into each bodice front.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-woven brocade, hand-sewn, pinking
Brief description
A woman's gown, 1780-85, English; ivory figured silk, brocaded in coloured floral wreaths, 1750s Spitalfields; altered 1870-1900
Physical description
A woman's gown of ivory silk, figured in a pattern of medallions with a central 'X' and brocaded in floral wreaths with shades of green, blue, purple and pink. The gown is open at the front with elbow-length sleeves with shaped, ruched cuffs. The bodice and skirt were cut separately and seamed at the waist. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The back is made of four shaped pieces, tapering to a point below the centre back waist. The skirt is made of 3 widths of silk with a partial panel and triangular gore of silk on each side of the front. The skirt is flat pleated into the waist, and held in place with stitching below the seam. The front edges of the skirt are scalloped and pinked. A line of pinked, box-pleated silk runs down each front edge of the skirt. The upper and lower edges of the sleeve cuffs are pinked and scalloped. Linen tapes on the inside back waist correspond to silk-covered buttons on the outside, for looping up the skirts.

The gown was probably first made in the English (tight-back) style and then remade in the early 1780s, perhaps for another wearer. The skirts are pieced and the ruched cuffs converted from sleeve ruffles.

The gown was altered for fancy dress in the late 19th century. A dart was sewn (now unpicked) into each bodice front.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem at centre back length: 175.0cm (approx)
  • Bust under armholes circumference: 74.5cm (approx)
  • Silk, selvedge to selvedge width: 50.5cm
Production typeUnique
Object history
Purchased in 1901. RF# 80227/1901
Collection
Accession number
124-1901

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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