Gown

1770s (weaving), 1775 - 1785 (sewing), 1870 - 1890 (altered)
Gown thumbnail 1
Gown thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

A woman's gown of cream silk with figured self stripes, beige satin stripes and figured red stripes, brocaded with coloured flowers and a corded white lattice. The gown is in the English (tight-back) style, open at the front with elbow-length sleeves. The bodice meets at the centre front, and a casing has been stitched around the front neckline for a narrow linen tape drawstring. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The back pleats are stitched, and the back lining boned on either side of centre back (left bone has been removed). The gown is made of 6 widths of silk, with the front edges curving at the hem. A waist seam runs from the front openings to either side of the pleats at the centre back. The skirts are finely flat pleated into the waist seam and held in place with stitching 3 cm below the seam. The hem is faced with a deep band of white silk taffeta. A narrow band of silk, edged with a fringe of white silk gimp with pink, white and green floss silk knots, edges the neck line. The same fringe, runs in two parallel lines down the front edges and around the curve of the hem.

The gown may have originally been made with sleeve ruffles which were later removed and replaced with a shaped extension to the sleeve, pieced from the ruffles.

In the late 19th century, the gown was altered for fancy dress; two large darts were stitched in the bodice fronts. The cords at the inside waist were probably added at this time, for looping up the skirts.


object details
Categories
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread, whalebone; hand-woven brocade, hand-sewn
Brief Description
F, 1775-85, English; Cream silk with beige satin, figured red stripes, brocaded coloured flowers and white lattice, Spitalfields, 1770s; altered 1870-1890
Physical Description
A woman's gown of cream silk with figured self stripes, beige satin stripes and figured red stripes, brocaded with coloured flowers and a corded white lattice. The gown is in the English (tight-back) style, open at the front with elbow-length sleeves. The bodice meets at the centre front, and a casing has been stitched around the front neckline for a narrow linen tape drawstring. The bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The back pleats are stitched, and the back lining boned on either side of centre back (left bone has been removed). The gown is made of 6 widths of silk, with the front edges curving at the hem. A waist seam runs from the front openings to either side of the pleats at the centre back. The skirts are finely flat pleated into the waist seam and held in place with stitching 3 cm below the seam. The hem is faced with a deep band of white silk taffeta. A narrow band of silk, edged with a fringe of white silk gimp with pink, white and green floss silk knots, edges the neck line. The same fringe, runs in two parallel lines down the front edges and around the curve of the hem.



The gown may have originally been made with sleeve ruffles which were later removed and replaced with a shaped extension to the sleeve, pieced from the ruffles.



In the late 19th century, the gown was altered for fancy dress; two large darts were stitched in the bodice fronts. The cords at the inside waist were probably added at this time, for looping up the skirts.
Dimensions
  • Shoulder to hem at centre back length: 152.0cm (approx)
  • Bust under armholes circumference: 99.5cm (approx)
  • Silk, selvedge to selvedge width: 49.5cm
Production typeUnique
Collection
Accession Number
341-1894

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record createdJune 24, 2009
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