Coif thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Coif

ca. 1625 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This coif is embroidered in a style known as whitework, using white embroidery threads on white linen. It also incorporates an embroidery style known as cutwork, where threads of the woven linen are cut and removed, and the remaining threads embroidered over to create open, lace-like patterns.

Whitework and cutwork developed in Italy during the 16th century and became popular in the rest of Europe. The Genoese style of the bobbin lace trimming the front edges of the coif and its slightly unusual shape suggest that it was made in Italy.

In Western Europe it was customary for both men and women to cover their heads in public up until the 1960s. A hat was an essential part of respectable dress and, from a health perspective, head coverings were considered necessary to protect against chills and disease.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Linen; hand-sewn, hand-embroidered, with handmade bobbin lace
Brief description
A woman's coif of linen, 1600-1625, Italian; Linen cutwork & insertions, Genoese bobbin lace edging
Physical description
A linen coif embellished with cutwork in buttonhole stitch and French knots, and insertion work. The front edge is flat and bordered with Genoese linen bobbin lace. The top seam is joined with insertion work and the crown gathered into a circle of insertion work. There is a narrow casing at the bottom with narrow linen tapes. The coif is unlined.
Dimensions
  • Approx. length: 23.5cm
  • Approx. width: 20.3cm
Summary
This coif is embroidered in a style known as whitework, using white embroidery threads on white linen. It also incorporates an embroidery style known as cutwork, where threads of the woven linen are cut and removed, and the remaining threads embroidered over to create open, lace-like patterns.

Whitework and cutwork developed in Italy during the 16th century and became popular in the rest of Europe. The Genoese style of the bobbin lace trimming the front edges of the coif and its slightly unusual shape suggest that it was made in Italy.

In Western Europe it was customary for both men and women to cover their heads in public up until the 1960s. A hat was an essential part of respectable dress and, from a health perspective, head coverings were considered necessary to protect against chills and disease.
Collection
Accession number
T.179-1921

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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