Coat

1770- 1775 (made), 1880 -1910 (altered)
Coat thumbnail 1
Coat thumbnail 2
+1
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Not currently on display at the V&A

Artist/Maker
Place Of Origin

A man's coat of biscuit-coloured (pink-beige) ribbed poplin, with a wool weft and silk warp. The coat has a round neckline with a standing collar (2.8 cm). The shaped, two-piece sleeves extend to the wrist with a deep round cuff (13 cm at top, 13.5 cm at bottom). The coat fronts curve slightly from neck to hem with skirts below the hip, set in pleats at the side-back seam. There is a rectangular pocketflap on each front, at hip level. The pockets and sleeves are lined with linen, the cuffs, pocket flaps, fronts and backs with blue silk twill. There are 9 cast silver-gilt buttons on the right front, from neck to pocket flap, with 9 corresponding buttonholes, worked in beige silk twist, on the left front. There are 3 buttons below each pocket flap (one missing, one later replacement on the right), 3 on each cuff (one now missing on each side). There is one button at the top of the pleats on each side and one (later replacements) holding them at the hem. There is a thread bar at the top of the back vent.

The coat has been altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical wear. The side-back seams have been taken in and then let out. Darts were made in the coat front and sleeves at the arm hole, to take them in. These were later let out and fabric cut from the side pleats added to make the armhole and sleeves larger under the arm. Repairs were made to the lining at the back waist.


object details
Category
Object Type
Materials and Techniques
Silk, wool, linen, silk thread, linen thread, silver-gilt; hand-woven poplin, taffeta, hand-sewn, cast buttons
Brief Description
A man's coat, 1770-75, British; Beige poplin, silver-gilt buttons; altered 1880-1910
Physical Description
A man's coat of biscuit-coloured (pink-beige) ribbed poplin, with a wool weft and silk warp. The coat has a round neckline with a standing collar (2.8 cm). The shaped, two-piece sleeves extend to the wrist with a deep round cuff (13 cm at top, 13.5 cm at bottom). The coat fronts curve slightly from neck to hem with skirts below the hip, set in pleats at the side-back seam. There is a rectangular pocketflap on each front, at hip level. The pockets and sleeves are lined with linen, the cuffs, pocket flaps, fronts and backs with blue silk twill. There are 9 cast silver-gilt buttons on the right front, from neck to pocket flap, with 9 corresponding buttonholes, worked in beige silk twist, on the left front. There are 3 buttons below each pocket flap (one missing, one later replacement on the right), 3 on each cuff (one now missing on each side). There is one button at the top of the pleats on each side and one (later replacements) holding them at the hem. There is a thread bar at the top of the back vent.



The coat has been altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical wear. The side-back seams have been taken in and then let out. Darts were made in the coat front and sleeves at the arm hole, to take them in. These were later let out and fabric cut from the side pleats added to make the armhole and sleeves larger under the arm. Repairs were made to the lining at the back waist.
Dimensions
  • Right shoulder to right hem length: 86.0cm (approx)
  • Chest under armholes circumference: 88.0cm (approx)
Production typeUnique
Credit line
Given by Messrs Harrods Ltd.
Collection
Accession Number
T.705-1913

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record createdJune 24, 2009
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