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Coat and Breeches

1760s (weaving), 1750-1774 (weaving), 1765 - 1770 (sewing), 1890 - 1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A man's coat and breeches of silk, figured in a design of a white floral motif against a background of grey diamonds on pink. The coat has a round neck with a standing collar (4 cm). The two-piece, shaped sleeves end between wrist and elbow, with round cuffs (15 cm deep at top, 16.5 cm deep at bottom). The fronts curve slightly from neck to hem, with skirts below the hip, set in 2 pleats (13.5 cm) at the side. There is an inverted pleat on each side of the centre back opening. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each front at hip level. The sleeves, pockets and back above the waist are lined with bleached linen. The collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, fronts and back skirts are lined with white twill silk. Buckram reinforces the front edges, back opening, pocket flaps and side pleats; the collar is interlined with linen. There are 10 silk-covered buttons on the right coat front, from neck to pocket flap, with corresponding buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the left front. There are 4 buttonholes (2 inner left uncut) on each pocket flap, with 4 covered buttons below the pocket opening. There are 4 buttons and uncut buttonholes on each cuff, and a button above the side pleats, one holding them together at the hem, and 2 buttons in the middle of the side-back pleats. There are two uncut buttonholes on each side of the back vent, at the top.

The breeches are made of the figured silk, the back legs cut higher than the front legs and gathered into the back of each waistband. There is one pocket in the lining of the right waistband and one with a pocket flap on each side below the waistbands. The breeches have a fall front. The pockets and waistbands are lined with unbleached linen. The fall front and pocket flaps are lined with white twill silk. The breeches legs are unlined; the inside leg seams, centre front and back seams, covered with linen tape. There are 3 silk-covered buttons on the right waistband at the front, with 3 buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the front of the left waistband. The fall front, pocket flap and knee openings fasten with smaller covered buttons and buttonholes. There are buckle bands at the bottom of each leg. At centre back, there are 2 worked eyelets on each waistband and buckle bands.

In the late 19c, the front edges of the coat were relined with ivory silk crepe.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Breeches
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-woven, hand-sewn
Brief description
A man's coat and breeches, 1760-65, French or English; Pink, grey and white figured silk, probably French, 1760-65; coat altered 1890-1910
Physical description
A man's coat and breeches of silk, figured in a design of a white floral motif against a background of grey diamonds on pink. The coat has a round neck with a standing collar (4 cm). The two-piece, shaped sleeves end between wrist and elbow, with round cuffs (15 cm deep at top, 16.5 cm deep at bottom). The fronts curve slightly from neck to hem, with skirts below the hip, set in 2 pleats (13.5 cm) at the side. There is an inverted pleat on each side of the centre back opening. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each front at hip level. The sleeves, pockets and back above the waist are lined with bleached linen. The collar, cuffs, pocket flaps, fronts and back skirts are lined with white twill silk. Buckram reinforces the front edges, back opening, pocket flaps and side pleats; the collar is interlined with linen. There are 10 silk-covered buttons on the right coat front, from neck to pocket flap, with corresponding buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the left front. There are 4 buttonholes (2 inner left uncut) on each pocket flap, with 4 covered buttons below the pocket opening. There are 4 buttons and uncut buttonholes on each cuff, and a button above the side pleats, one holding them together at the hem, and 2 buttons in the middle of the side-back pleats. There are two uncut buttonholes on each side of the back vent, at the top.

The breeches are made of the figured silk, the back legs cut higher than the front legs and gathered into the back of each waistband. There is one pocket in the lining of the right waistband and one with a pocket flap on each side below the waistbands. The breeches have a fall front. The pockets and waistbands are lined with unbleached linen. The fall front and pocket flaps are lined with white twill silk. The breeches legs are unlined; the inside leg seams, centre front and back seams, covered with linen tape. There are 3 silk-covered buttons on the right waistband at the front, with 3 buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the front of the left waistband. The fall front, pocket flap and knee openings fasten with smaller covered buttons and buttonholes. There are buckle bands at the bottom of each leg. At centre back, there are 2 worked eyelets on each waistband and buckle bands.

In the late 19c, the front edges of the coat were relined with ivory silk crepe.
Production typeUnique
Marks and inscriptions
W Duffield (Hand-written in pen and black ink on the right proper lining of the collar)
Credit line
Given by Messrs. Harrods
Object history
Part of the Talbot Hughes collection
Collection
Accession number
T.707-1913

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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