Man's Suit
1770s (made), 1870 - 1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
A man's coat, waistcoat and breeches of red silk with figured stripes. The coat has a round neck with narrow (3 cm) standing collar. The narrow, shaped, two-piece sleeves end at the wrist with a round cuff (10.5 cm). The fronts curve from neck to hem, with a pleat (11.5 cm deep) at the side-back seams. There is an inverted pleat on each side of the centre back opening. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each front at hip level. The sleeves are lined with linen, the cuffs, pockets and pocket flaps with blue silk taffeta. The coat is tamboured-to-shape down the front edges, on the cuffs and collar, on and around the pocket flaps, on the front edge of the side-back seam and around the back vent. The design of abstract floral sprays and swags is worked in silk in blue, yellow and shades of green. There are 11 tamboured-to-shape, covered buttons on the right front, 3 under each pocket flap, 3 on each cuff, one above the side pleats, and one holding them at the hem. There is a metal hook on the left front; the corresponding hook below the 3rd button down is now missing.
The waistcoat fronts are made of the red figured silk, the back of bleached linen. The fronts curve from neck to hem with skirts ending between the top and middle of the thigh. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each waistcoat front at hip level. The pockets and pocket flaps are lined with blue silk taffeta. The waistcoat is tamboured-to-shape down the fronts, across the front hems, on and around the pocket flaps in the same design as the coat. There are 11 small, tambered-to-shape, covered buttons on the right front, with 11 corresponding buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the left front.
The breeches are made of 2 front legs, 2 back legs and 2 waistbands, cut of the red figured silk. The back legs are cut higher than the front and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a pocket in the right waistband and one on each side below the waistband with a pocket flap. The breeches are lined with linen. The waistband fastens in front with 3 large silk-coverd buttons (one now missing) and buckle bands at the centre back. Each pocket flap fastens with a small, silk-covered button, and the centre front with 2 small, tamboured-to-shape, covered buttons. Seven of these same buttons fasten the outsides of the legs above the knee. There is a tamboured-to-shape buckle band at the bottom of each leg.
The ensemble was probably worn as theatre costume in the late 19th or early 20th century. There are extensive repairs to the linings of the coat and waistcoat. The back of the waistcoat has been taken in and let out. There is darning on the seat of the breeches and under the sleeves of the coat.
The waistcoat fronts are made of the red figured silk, the back of bleached linen. The fronts curve from neck to hem with skirts ending between the top and middle of the thigh. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each waistcoat front at hip level. The pockets and pocket flaps are lined with blue silk taffeta. The waistcoat is tamboured-to-shape down the fronts, across the front hems, on and around the pocket flaps in the same design as the coat. There are 11 small, tambered-to-shape, covered buttons on the right front, with 11 corresponding buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the left front.
The breeches are made of 2 front legs, 2 back legs and 2 waistbands, cut of the red figured silk. The back legs are cut higher than the front and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a pocket in the right waistband and one on each side below the waistband with a pocket flap. The breeches are lined with linen. The waistband fastens in front with 3 large silk-coverd buttons (one now missing) and buckle bands at the centre back. Each pocket flap fastens with a small, silk-covered button, and the centre front with 2 small, tamboured-to-shape, covered buttons. Seven of these same buttons fasten the outsides of the legs above the knee. There is a tamboured-to-shape buckle band at the bottom of each leg.
The ensemble was probably worn as theatre costume in the late 19th or early 20th century. There are extensive repairs to the linings of the coat and waistcoat. The back of the waistcoat has been taken in and let out. There is darning on the seat of the breeches and under the sleeves of the coat.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Parts | This object consists of 3 parts.
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Materials and techniques | Silk, linen, silk thread, linen thread; hand-woven, hand-tamboured, hand-sewn |
Brief description | A man's coat, waistcoat and breeches, 1770s, English or French; red silk with figured stripes, embroidered-to-shape, 1770s, Lyons; altered 1870-1910 |
Physical description | A man's coat, waistcoat and breeches of red silk with figured stripes. The coat has a round neck with narrow (3 cm) standing collar. The narrow, shaped, two-piece sleeves end at the wrist with a round cuff (10.5 cm). The fronts curve from neck to hem, with a pleat (11.5 cm deep) at the side-back seams. There is an inverted pleat on each side of the centre back opening. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each front at hip level. The sleeves are lined with linen, the cuffs, pockets and pocket flaps with blue silk taffeta. The coat is tamboured-to-shape down the front edges, on the cuffs and collar, on and around the pocket flaps, on the front edge of the side-back seam and around the back vent. The design of abstract floral sprays and swags is worked in silk in blue, yellow and shades of green. There are 11 tamboured-to-shape, covered buttons on the right front, 3 under each pocket flap, 3 on each cuff, one above the side pleats, and one holding them at the hem. There is a metal hook on the left front; the corresponding hook below the 3rd button down is now missing. The waistcoat fronts are made of the red figured silk, the back of bleached linen. The fronts curve from neck to hem with skirts ending between the top and middle of the thigh. There is a scalloped pocket flap on each waistcoat front at hip level. The pockets and pocket flaps are lined with blue silk taffeta. The waistcoat is tamboured-to-shape down the fronts, across the front hems, on and around the pocket flaps in the same design as the coat. There are 11 small, tambered-to-shape, covered buttons on the right front, with 11 corresponding buttonholes, worked in pink silk twist, on the left front. The breeches are made of 2 front legs, 2 back legs and 2 waistbands, cut of the red figured silk. The back legs are cut higher than the front and gathered into the back of the waistbands. There is a pocket in the right waistband and one on each side below the waistband with a pocket flap. The breeches are lined with linen. The waistband fastens in front with 3 large silk-coverd buttons (one now missing) and buckle bands at the centre back. Each pocket flap fastens with a small, silk-covered button, and the centre front with 2 small, tamboured-to-shape, covered buttons. Seven of these same buttons fasten the outsides of the legs above the knee. There is a tamboured-to-shape buckle band at the bottom of each leg. The ensemble was probably worn as theatre costume in the late 19th or early 20th century. There are extensive repairs to the linings of the coat and waistcoat. The back of the waistcoat has been taken in and let out. There is darning on the seat of the breeches and under the sleeves of the coat. |
Production type | Unique |
Credit line | From the Henry Wallis Collection |
Collection | |
Accession number | T.777-1919 |
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Record created | June 24, 2009 |
Record URL |
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