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Coat & Waistcoat

1785-1795 (made), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A man’s coat and waistcoat of silk with a narrow stripe of brown and white uncut velvet alternating with a voided pink ground. The coat has a 2-piece, 3-inch (7.4 cm) turned-down collar, pointed at the back, and curving 2-piece sleeves ending in mariner’s cuffs, 3½ inches (9.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 4 inches (10 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and scalloped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with white silk twill, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen. There are 9 worked buttonholes along the left front edge and 2 on each cuff. Only the top 5 buttonholes on the front have been cut. There are 10 self-covered buttons on the right front, 3 below the pockets, 2 on each cuff and 1 at the hem and top of the pleats.

The waistcoat fronts are made of the brown and white uncut and voided pink velvet, the back of fustian. It has standing 2-inch collar, straight fronts, ending with a straight hem at hip level. Each front has welted pocket. The back is made of fustian. The front is double-breasted; there are 10 worked buttonholes along the left front and 10 self-covered buttons on the right front and 10 to the left of the buttonholes.

The coat and waistcoat were altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical costume. The lining of the coat was patched and the pleats unpicked and resewn. The waistcoat lining was replaced with striped cotton twill.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Waistcoat
Materials and techniques
Silk, linen, cotton; hand-woven, velvet weave, hand-sewn
Brief description
Man's coat and waistcoat, 1785-95, British or French; brown and pink striped uncut velvet, altered 1870-1910
Physical description
A man’s coat and waistcoat of silk with a narrow stripe of brown and white uncut velvet alternating with a voided pink ground. The coat has a 2-piece, 3-inch (7.4 cm) turned-down collar, pointed at the back, and curving 2-piece sleeves ending in mariner’s cuffs, 3½ inches (9.4 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem with pleats 4 inches (10 cm) deep, below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and scalloped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with white silk twill, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen. There are 9 worked buttonholes along the left front edge and 2 on each cuff. Only the top 5 buttonholes on the front have been cut. There are 10 self-covered buttons on the right front, 3 below the pockets, 2 on each cuff and 1 at the hem and top of the pleats.

The waistcoat fronts are made of the brown and white uncut and voided pink velvet, the back of fustian. It has standing 2-inch collar, straight fronts, ending with a straight hem at hip level. Each front has welted pocket. The back is made of fustian. The front is double-breasted; there are 10 worked buttonholes along the left front and 10 self-covered buttons on the right front and 10 to the left of the buttonholes.

The coat and waistcoat were altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical costume. The lining of the coat was patched and the pleats unpicked and resewn. The waistcoat lining was replaced with striped cotton twill.
Credit line
From the Henry Wallis Collection
Collection
Accession number
T.775-1919

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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