Women's ensemble, cotton, felt, wool, silk, Greece (Attica, Keratea), 1800s.

Sleeveless dress made of cotton, embroidered in coloured silks. Wide band of geometric ornament in gobelin round the hem of the dress, stem and chain stitches.

Cotton bodice, embroidered in coloured silks. The sleeves have double cuffs, the lower tacked inside the upper. The lower cuff embroidered to match the hem of the dress. The upper has a bold floral pattern in long and short stitch with a pomegranate in the centre. Trimmed at the neck opening with red braid and fastened with buttons covered in the same material.

Apron of wool, brocaded in coloured wools. Red and white linen fringe. Pair of linen tying strings. Pattern of rows of geometrical ornament across the lower end.

Sleeveless coat of white felt, with facings of red felted wool lined with green cotton. Trimmed with silk cord and applique.

Headscarf of white silk gauze. Woven bands of silver-gilt thread at each end. The ends finished with gold lace and a fringe.

Head ornament of black cord with large silk tassels.

Headband composed of thirteen gilt metal plaques, joined by hinges, with pattern in low relief and pierced with holes. A lozange shaped pendant of gilt metal produced in the same way. Both the pendant and the band are hung with Turkish coins, and set with coloured glass stones imitating jewellery. This is the same length as the other series of metal plaques (T.720H).

Headband composed of gilt metal plaques, joined by hinges, with pattern in low relief and pierced with holes, hung with Turkish coins, and set with tear shaped stones of white glass imitating jewellery. This is the same length as the other series of metal plaques (T.720G). Shown on the ensemble photograph as a necklace.

Two pins, with each head shaped like a six-petalled blossom, pierced with hole, and set with cut white glass stone.

Given by A. J. B. Wace

Gift of A.J.B. Wace. Collection nos. 3053-9.

Note in the register says 'The costume of Attica is illustrated in Benaki Museum, Hellenic National Costumes, Pls. 12-14, Zora, Embroidery and Jewellery in Greek National Costumes, Pls. 2, 3 and 26, Tarsouli, Costumes Grecs Pls 2 and 4, which she ascribes to Massoghion. This is roughly the same district, south of Athens, as the village of Keratea. See also Stackelberg. Pls 3 and 4 which is essentially the same costume. The same costume appears to have been worn over the whole of Attica. As late as 1907 the traveller P.S. Marden describes a visit on a feast day to the village of Menidi, north of Athens (Greece and the Aegean Islands, 1907): 'their (the wqomen's) robes were in the main of white, but the skirts were decked with the richest of woolen embroideries, heavy and thick, extending for several inches upward from the lower hem, in a profusion of rich reds, blues and browns. Aprons similarly adorned were worn above. Most impressivce however were the sleeveless overgarments or coats...of white stuff, bordered with a deep red facing and overlaid with intricate tracery in gold lace and gold braid. He illustrates the costume opp.p.142.'

Note in original register describes the ensemble as Greaco-Albanian.

Jacket, part T.720B-1919:

Panels of thick white felt and finer, red felted wool form this striking and bold sleeveless coat for a woman. The garment has been softened by tiny undulations of red silk cord applied over most of the seams and outlining the finger-like decoration that falls over the hip. A panel of red wool has been inserted under the arm - possibly because it is more flexible and therefore more comfortable than the white felt - and it has been edged with red and green silk cords. Five decorative interlaced cords have been placed over this panel and more cords have been twisted into swirls and couched in place. The small roundels are formed by applied pieces of fabric woven with metal threads and bright yellow silk.

T.720-1919