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Chasuble

1450-75 (made), 1500-1599 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Spanish shaped chasuble of red silk velvet with green selvedges and applied orphreys of linen canvas embroidered with coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt thread in split, brick, long and short and stem stitches, partially padded with laid and couched work. The shaped neck piece, the panels with shields at the bases of the orphreys and the triple cord gold edging are Spanish additions.

The Cross orphrey depicts the centurion, Longinus, holding an inscribed scroll, Christ crucified with mourning angels and God the Father with the Holy Ghost in the form of a dove.

The front orphrey, from bottom to top, depicts Mary Magdalene with a jar, John the Baptist with a cup and a female saint with a basket, similar in design to the figure of Mary Magdalene.

The shield of arms on the Spanish additions (visible only on the Cross orphrey): quarterly 1-4 vert, three fleurs-de-lis argent, 1 and 2, 2-3 gules a tree, eradicated proper for Sobrarbe Aragon.

The neck piece is decorated with a foliate scroll in coloured silks on a ground of laid gold threads. The chasuble is lined in linen.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk velvet, applied linen canvas, embroidered with silk, silver-gilt and gold thread, laid and couched work, gold cord edging, partially padded, lined with linen
Brief description
Chasuble of silk velvet with embroidered linen canvas orphreys, England, 1450-75 (orphreys); Spain, 16th century (body)
Physical description
Spanish shaped chasuble of red silk velvet with green selvedges and applied orphreys of linen canvas embroidered with coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt thread in split, brick, long and short and stem stitches, partially padded with laid and couched work. The shaped neck piece, the panels with shields at the bases of the orphreys and the triple cord gold edging are Spanish additions.

The Cross orphrey depicts the centurion, Longinus, holding an inscribed scroll, Christ crucified with mourning angels and God the Father with the Holy Ghost in the form of a dove.

The front orphrey, from bottom to top, depicts Mary Magdalene with a jar, John the Baptist with a cup and a female saint with a basket, similar in design to the figure of Mary Magdalene.

The shield of arms on the Spanish additions (visible only on the Cross orphrey): quarterly 1-4 vert, three fleurs-de-lis argent, 1 and 2, 2-3 gules a tree, eradicated proper for Sobrarbe Aragon.

The neck piece is decorated with a foliate scroll in coloured silks on a ground of laid gold threads. The chasuble is lined in linen.
Dimensions
  • Maximum height: 29cm
  • Maximum width: 22.5cm
Marks and inscriptions
  • 'Vere filius dei erat iste' ('Truly this was the son of God') (Inscribed scroll)
  • 'K? B Sta M(?)aria' (Ink inscription on inside front of lining)
Object history
The associated cope T.46-1914 was donated to the Victoria and Albert Museum by Sir Charles and Lady Florence Waldstein in memory of Lady Waldstein's parents, Mr. and Mrs. D. L. Einstein, 'whose great collection of textiles and needlework was deservedly famous'. The donors gifted one dalmatic from the same set of vestments to the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge in 1914 (accession no. T.1-1914) and the other dalmatic, also from the same set, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 1915 (accession number 15.141c). At the time, they decided to retain this chasuble.

Sir Charles Waldstein (1856 – 1927), known as Sir Charles Walston from 1918 to 1927, was an Anglo-American archaeologist. In 1880, he became university lecturer on classical archaeology at Cambridge University, and in 1883 university reader. From 1883 to 1889 he was director of the Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge.

Provenance:
Tassinari and Chatel (silk manufacturer), Lyon, before 1877; Mr and Mrs D. L. Einstein; the Waldstein family by descent; purchased by the V&A at Christie’s, London, 1978
Associated object
T.46-1914 (Set)
Bibliographic references
  • Exposition retrospective de Lyon: notice sommaire des objets d’art exposes dans le Palais du Commerce , exhibition catalogue, Lyon, Palais du Commerce. Lyon, 1877
  • Victoria and Albert Museum. Gift of a Velvet Cope, The Morning Post, Thursday, May 28, 1914
  • Treasures for the Nation. Rare Metal Work and a Fine Velvet Cope, The Times, Thursday, May 28 1914
  • Tattersall, C. E. Cecil, ‘A Set of 16th-Century Vestments’, Burlington Magazine 29 (1916), 49–51, 54–6
  • King, Donald, Opus Anglicanum: English Medieval Embroidery , exhibition catalogue, London, Victoria and Albert Museum (London, 1963), cat. no. 130
  • Wetter, Evelin, Mittelalterliche Textilien , vol. iii: Stickerei bis um 1500 und figurlich gewebte Borten , Die Textilsammlung der Abegg-Stiftung 6. Riggisberg, 2012, pp. 173-7
  • Browne, Clare; Davies, Glyn; Michael, M.A., English Medieval Embroidery: Opus Anglicanum , exhibition catalogue, London, Victoria and Albert Museum (London, 2016) pp. 259-61
Collection
Accession number
T.82-1978

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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