Vestment thumbnail 1
Vestment thumbnail 2
+3
images

This object consists of 3 parts, some of which may be located elsewhere.

Vestment

late 17th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

A small number of leather vestments have survived which appear to date from the late 17th and early 18th century. Leather is not an obvious material to make vestments from, because of its stiffness, weight and therefore awkwardness and discomfort in wear. But when the surface was raised by stamping or embossing, and then decorated with gilding and silvering, and painting with other colours, its visual effect could be very rich and fine.

The art of decorating leather in this way originated in Spain, but spread to many European countries, in particular the Netherlands. Leather vestments are usually associated with German or Italian manufacture, although there is no clear consensus on this. The most spectacular example to have survived, a cope originally used in Saig in the Black Forest region of Germany and now in the Badisches Landesmuseum, Karlsruhe, may be German, but a comparison of its design with Italian velvets suggests an Italian origin is also possible.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 3 parts.

  • Chasuble
  • Stole
  • Maniple
Materials and techniques
silvered embossed and stamped leather, linen lining. The gold colour is achieved with a yellow varnish over the very fine silver leaf.
Brief description
Set of leather vestments, chasuble, stole and maniple, stamped and silvered, late 17th century, possibly German or Italian
Dimensions
  • Length: 980mm
  • Width: 650mm (Note: Measured by Conservation for Europe 1600-1800)
Historical context
Pauline Johnstone comments [on leather vestments generally] "The use of gilded and stamped leather appears to be an example of the determination to use an expensive fashionable material for vestments whether it was suitable or not. Certainly the leather chasubles, and even the occasional cope, must have been intolerably heavy and awkward in wear".
Summary
A small number of leather vestments have survived which appear to date from the late 17th and early 18th century. Leather is not an obvious material to make vestments from, because of its stiffness, weight and therefore awkwardness and discomfort in wear. But when the surface was raised by stamping or embossing, and then decorated with gilding and silvering, and painting with other colours, its visual effect could be very rich and fine.

The art of decorating leather in this way originated in Spain, but spread to many European countries, in particular the Netherlands. Leather vestments are usually associated with German or Italian manufacture, although there is no clear consensus on this. The most spectacular example to have survived, a cope originally used in Saig in the Black Forest region of Germany and now in the Badisches Landesmuseum, Karlsruhe, may be German, but a comparison of its design with Italian velvets suggests an Italian origin is also possible.
Bibliographic references
  • Raiment for the Lord's Service : A Thousand Years of Western Vestments, by Christa C Mayer-Thurman, Art Institute of Chicago, 1975. Images of the Saig leather cope, cat. no. 111.
  • Leder im Europaischen Kunsthandwerk, by Gunter Gall, Braunschweig, 1965, has brief discussion of leather vestments, with black and white photos, on pp.311-314.
  • John W. Waterer, Spanish Leather, London 1971, page 49, plate 65
Collection
Accession number
476 to B-1882

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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