Tunic thumbnail 1
Tunic thumbnail 2
Not on display

Tunic

1912-1920 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This blue silk tunic belonged to the famous Italian actor Eleonora Duse (1858-1924), noted for her association with the poet and playwright Gabriele d'Annunzio. Duse was a great friend of the designer Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) and was known for the fact that she used very little make-up in an age where acting demanded dramatic costumes and disguise. Duse was the first woman to appear on the cover of Time magazine in July 1923.

The tunic was purchased from Vitaldi Babani, a designer-importer who launched his business in 1895. His shop 'Babani' was situated at 98 Boulevard Haussman. Along with the designer Paul Poiret, Babani was licensed to sell Fortuny designs in Paris. In addition to retailing Fortuny designs, Babani sold Liberty textiles and produced fabrics and garments of his own design that bore the influence of these designers.

This tunic could have been designed by Fortuny, who was a painter, theatre designer, photographer, inventor and scientist. However, he is best known as a creator of extraordinary fabrics and clothes. His distinctive creations were worn by avant-garde beauties throughout the world from about 1910 to the 1930s.

Object details

Categories
Object type
Materials and techniques
Gold stencilled silk chiffon, whip stitched with silk thread, and weighted with beads
Brief description
Tunic of silk chiffon, possibly designed by Mariano Fortuny, retailed by Babani in Paris, possibly made in Italy, 1912-1920
Physical description
Tunic of blue silk chiffon stencilled with gold designs around the neck, sides and hem.

It has a round neckline and is sleeveless. The sides are open and the bottom and are weighted with blue, red and white Venetian beads. It is straight cut and the sides are whip stitched together on the selvage with blue silk thread.
Credit line
Given by Fr. Sebastian Bullough
Summary
This blue silk tunic belonged to the famous Italian actor Eleonora Duse (1858-1924), noted for her association with the poet and playwright Gabriele d'Annunzio. Duse was a great friend of the designer Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) and was known for the fact that she used very little make-up in an age where acting demanded dramatic costumes and disguise. Duse was the first woman to appear on the cover of Time magazine in July 1923.

The tunic was purchased from Vitaldi Babani, a designer-importer who launched his business in 1895. His shop 'Babani' was situated at 98 Boulevard Haussman. Along with the designer Paul Poiret, Babani was licensed to sell Fortuny designs in Paris. In addition to retailing Fortuny designs, Babani sold Liberty textiles and produced fabrics and garments of his own design that bore the influence of these designers.

This tunic could have been designed by Fortuny, who was a painter, theatre designer, photographer, inventor and scientist. However, he is best known as a creator of extraordinary fabrics and clothes. His distinctive creations were worn by avant-garde beauties throughout the world from about 1910 to the 1930s.
Collection
Accession number
T.738-1972

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
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