Suit
1775-1785 (made), 1870-1900 (altered)
| Artist/Maker | |
| Place of origin |
A man’s formal coat, waistcoat and breeches of green silk satin. The coat has a 1⅜-inch (3.5 cm) standing collar and curving, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 3⅜ inches (8.6 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with 4¾-inch (12 cm) deep pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk satin, the sleeves with fustian, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver thread, purl and spangles in an abstract floral pattern, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below the pockets and 1 at the top, centre and hem of the pleats.
The waistcoat fronts are made of green silk satin, with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pocket flap. The back is made of fustian; the fronts are lined with fustian. The fronts are faced and the skirts and pocket flaps lined with ivory silk satin. It is embroidered to-shape with silver thread, purl and spangles in an abstract floral pattern, on the front collars and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems. There are 10 worked buttonholes along the left front; the top 3 uncut. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front and 3 below each pocket.
The breeches comprise 2 legs and 2 waistbands of the green silk satin; the back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back waistbands. There is a pocket on each front, under the fall front and a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands and a fall front. The breeches are lined with fustian. Four embroidered buttons fasten the waistband and 2, the fall front. Two fustian-covered buttons fasten the front pockets. There are 5 worked buttonholes and 5 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered with silver thread, spangles and purls in the same design as the coat and waistcoat.
The suit was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The coat lining was patched and repaired; the centre-back seam of the waistcoat unpicked and linen tape ties added. An additional waistband was added to the breeches to lengthen them.
The waistcoat fronts are made of green silk satin, with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pocket flap. The back is made of fustian; the fronts are lined with fustian. The fronts are faced and the skirts and pocket flaps lined with ivory silk satin. It is embroidered to-shape with silver thread, purl and spangles in an abstract floral pattern, on the front collars and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems. There are 10 worked buttonholes along the left front; the top 3 uncut. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front and 3 below each pocket.
The breeches comprise 2 legs and 2 waistbands of the green silk satin; the back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back waistbands. There is a pocket on each front, under the fall front and a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands and a fall front. The breeches are lined with fustian. Four embroidered buttons fasten the waistband and 2, the fall front. Two fustian-covered buttons fasten the front pockets. There are 5 worked buttonholes and 5 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered with silver thread, spangles and purls in the same design as the coat and waistcoat.
The suit was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The coat lining was patched and repaired; the centre-back seam of the waistcoat unpicked and linen tape ties added. An additional waistband was added to the breeches to lengthen them.
Object details
| Categories | |
| Object type | |
| Parts | This object consists of 3 parts.
|
| Materials and techniques | Silk, linen, cotton, silver; hand-woven, satin weave, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn. |
| Brief description | Man's formal coat, waistcoat and breeches, 1775-1785, British; Green satin, embroidered silver thread, spangles |
| Physical description | A man’s formal coat, waistcoat and breeches of green silk satin. The coat has a 1⅜-inch (3.5 cm) standing collar and curving, 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 3⅜ inches (8.6 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with 4¾-inch (12 cm) deep pleats below the hip set beside the centre back. Each front has a pocket and shaped pocket flap; the centre-back seam is open below the hip. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk satin, the sleeves with fustian, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silver thread, purl and spangles in an abstract floral pattern, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and centre-back opening. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front, 3 on each cuff, 3 below the pockets and 1 at the top, centre and hem of the pleats. The waistcoat fronts are made of green silk satin, with a round neckline, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pocket flap. The back is made of fustian; the fronts are lined with fustian. The fronts are faced and the skirts and pocket flaps lined with ivory silk satin. It is embroidered to-shape with silver thread, purl and spangles in an abstract floral pattern, on the front collars and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems. There are 10 worked buttonholes along the left front; the top 3 uncut. There are 10 embroidered buttons on the right front and 3 below each pocket. The breeches comprise 2 legs and 2 waistbands of the green silk satin; the back legs are cut higher than the fronts and gathered into the back waistbands. There is a pocket on each front, under the fall front and a watch pocket in each front waistband. The breeches close with buttoned front waistbands and a fall front. The breeches are lined with fustian. Four embroidered buttons fasten the waistband and 2, the fall front. Two fustian-covered buttons fasten the front pockets. There are 5 worked buttonholes and 5 embroidered buttons on the outside of each leg above the knee. The knee bands are embroidered with silver thread, spangles and purls in the same design as the coat and waistcoat. The suit was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The coat lining was patched and repaired; the centre-back seam of the waistcoat unpicked and linen tape ties added. An additional waistband was added to the breeches to lengthen them. |
| Collection | |
| Accession number | 1574-1904 |
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| Record created | June 24, 2009 |
| Record URL |
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