Screen-printed silk head scarf, made by Zika and Lida Ascher, London, 1950s

Red screen-printed silk ground head scarf with a geometric pattern of green squares, criss-crossed by smaller squares in blue, yellow, orange, and black and orange stripes.

Historical significance: Fabric shortages during the Second World War contributed to the growth in popularity of head scarves which were colourful and practical and could enhance monotonous uniforms. Ascher initially revived nineteenth century prints in bold new colours and in the 1940's began to commission leading French and English artists to design patterns for his head scarves. Exclusive arrangements were made with some artists such as Felix Topolski and Henry Moore while others contributed on an occasional basis.

The scarves were then screen printed by hand in the Ascher studio and proved immensely popular.

An exhibition of the squares was held at the Lefevre Gallery in Paris in 1947. It was the first time that a prestigious gallery had shown a comprehensive collection of modern textiles by contemporary artists.

As well as the prestigious but commercially unsuccessful artist squares, Ascher continued to produce and sell a wide range of textiles, dress fabrics, scarves and head squares.

Reason For Production: Retail

T.720-1997