Although there is a long history of glass production in South Africa (glass beads formed part of an Iron Age excavation in the northern Transvaal) the tiny glass beads from which most beadwork in the area is produced only became available in large quantities in the late 19th century. These beads were mass-produced in Europe – particularly in the glass-making centres of Venice, Bohemia and the Netherlands – and transported to African countries to be used in trade.

The beads became an important element in artistic expressions of cultural and ethnic affiliation amongst Xhosa and Zulu-speaking peoples. Elaborate pieces of bead embroidery were worn by men and women and, through colour and design, communicated the wearer’s ethnicity, age, regional roots, wealth and status. Xhosa and Zulu women continue to produce and wear large quantities of beadwork, particularly on ceremonial occasions.

British people were able to collect examples of beadwork such as this necklace through their involvement in conflicts like the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879 and the South African War of 1899-1902, or via their work as colonial agents.