Walking dress; brown wool, blue shot silk; England, 1868-70

The bodice is made from brown wool trimmed and faced with fine, striped, mid-blue shot silk, the material also used for the underskirt. It fastens with worked silk buttons and has a narrow neckband with a detachable fichu collar trimmed with a bow. The bodice is fitted to shape with darts and has a basque which is short, hip-length, in front but longer at the back where it is arranged to suggest coat tails with patch pockets. The sleeves are long and wide with deep cuffs trimmed with pleating and bows. The overskirt is knee-length, trimmed with a false button fastening down the front, and asymmetrically draped at the back where it is trimmed with bows. The skirt is gored, the sides pleated and the straight-cut back pleated tightly into the waistband. The bodice is lined with fine stiffened cotton and there is a tape which passes through strings on the underside of the skirt, from the outside of the waistband so that the train can be gathered up for walking.

Given by Miss E. Beard

The crinoline went out of fashion quite dramatically about 1868. The lengths of skirt that used to fall over the crinoline were gathered up at the back over a bustle. This ensemble characterises the new style of fashionable women’s dress. It has an over-skirt and the bodice now extends below the waist. The inside of the skirt has a series of tapes, which enable it to be tied up for walking outdoors.

T.6 to C-1937