Not currently on display at the V&A

Patolu

early 19th century (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This type of Gujarati silk double-ikat cloth is known as a ‘patolu’. A speciality of weavers in Gujarat in India, it was made for export to the Indonesian market in the late 19th century or later. It has been cut and edged to serve as a ceremonial cloth at the Javanese courts where it would have been used as breast-cloth, possibly by a court dancer.

The weaving technique used to create ‘patola’ is very sophisticated. Weavers tie and dye the warp and weft threads in patterns and then weave them together to create a pattern on both sides of the cloth.


Object details

Category
Object type
Materials and techniques
Silk double ikat
Brief description
Patolu ceremonial cloth used as a breast-cloth, made for the Indonesian market, Gujarat, 19th century.
Physical description
Patola ceremonial cloth used as breast-cloth, blue and red colour, flower pattern.
Dimensions
  • Length: 258cm
  • Width: 41cm
Object history
Purchased from Irwan Holmes for £500. in 1994
Production
For the Indonesian market.
Subjects depicted
Summary
This type of Gujarati silk double-ikat cloth is known as a ‘patolu’. A speciality of weavers in Gujarat in India, it was made for export to the Indonesian market in the late 19th century or later. It has been cut and edged to serve as a ceremonial cloth at the Javanese courts where it would have been used as breast-cloth, possibly by a court dancer.

The weaving technique used to create ‘patola’ is very sophisticated. Weavers tie and dye the warp and weft threads in patterns and then weave them together to create a pattern on both sides of the cloth.
Bibliographic reference
John Guy, Woven Cargoes. Indian Textiles in the East, Thames & Hudson, 1996, pl. 27.
Collection
Accession number
IS.32-1994

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Record createdMarch 13, 2000
Record URL
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