Large silver filigree clasp set with turquoises, South Caucasus, 1750-1850.

Three-part silver filigree clasp set with turquoises. The left part, as worn, is soldered to the centre, and the right part is attached by a pin fastening with a filigree dome on the front of its head. The centre part is shaped like an oval with a scalloped rim and a pointed top. The two sides are a similar shape, fixed at right angles to the centre, with the lower half replaced by a curved indentation to fit the sides of the centre part. There is a large complex open filigree dome in the centre of the central part and a matching smaller dome on each of the side parts. The whole surface, including the dome at the top of the pin, is decorated with turquoises, granules and granule rosettes. The pin is attached to the clasp by a short chain which is fastened to a loose ring at the top of the left hand part. There is a wire bar and a strip of sheet silver at the back of each side for attachment.

Throughout the lands of the former Ottoman Empire, from the north Balkans to the Caucasus, large and elaborate waist clasps were the most important item in a woman’s dowry. They are traditionally made in a small number of shapes including this elegant design which may represent a stylised tulip.

This three-part design is fastened by a pin which joins the right hand element to the centre and is attached to the clasp by a chain. These chains usually played an important part in the decoration of the clasp, hanging down over the front in several graduated tiers of figure-of-eight links. The chain on this example may have been replaced, as it is much shorter than normal, and consists of machine-made double links.

This example probably comes from eastern Anatolia or the Caucasus, and is Armenian work; it was described as Georgian when it was acquired in 1879.

80-1879