Panel thumbnail 1
Panel thumbnail 2
Not currently on display at the V&A

Panel

1590-1610 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These two embroidered panels are probably what were known as 'sleeve cheats' - narrow panels of embroidered sewn under the opening of the sleeve of a man's doublet or woman's waistcoat to suggest there was whole sleeve of embroidery of a shirt or smock underneath.

The date of the embroidery appears earlier than the 1620s. The simple speckling corresponds to the period 1590 to 1610 during the transition from the geometrical patterns of the 16th century to the shaded speckling of the 17th century. The sleeves of this period were very full at the shoulder tapering to a narrow wrist, with the seams closed. So it is not clear how these panels would have been used in the fashions of 1590 to 1610.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Sleeve Panel
  • Sleeve Panel
Materials and techniques
Linen, silk, silver, gold; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn
Brief description
Pair of man or woman's blackwork sleeve panels, England, 1590-1610
Physical description
A pair of sleeve panels for a man's double or woman's waistcoat of linen embroidered with black silk thread worked in running stitch. It is embroidered with silver-gilt thread in plaited braid stitch and silver-gilt spangles. The pattern consists of scrolling stems bearing a heart-shaped flower, possibly peas-blossom.The ink design of the embroidery is visible at the ower edge of each panel. On the three sides of each panel is a series of braided thread bars for laced fastening. The panels are lined with linen.
Dimensions
  • T.31 1975 length: 32.7cm (approx)
  • T.31 a 1975 length: 34.0cm (approx)
Style
Credit line
Given by Miss Agnus A. Hepburn and Mrs Margaret Owen
Summary
These two embroidered panels are probably what were known as 'sleeve cheats' - narrow panels of embroidered sewn under the opening of the sleeve of a man's doublet or woman's waistcoat to suggest there was whole sleeve of embroidery of a shirt or smock underneath.

The date of the embroidery appears earlier than the 1620s. The simple speckling corresponds to the period 1590 to 1610 during the transition from the geometrical patterns of the 16th century to the shaded speckling of the 17th century. The sleeves of this period were very full at the shoulder tapering to a narrow wrist, with the seams closed. So it is not clear how these panels would have been used in the fashions of 1590 to 1610.
Collection
Accession number
T.31&A-1975

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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