Ruff edging of linen needle lace, probably made in Italy, 1600-1620

Ruff edging of linen needle lace comprising of a row of cutwork squares with two alternating geometric designs, and attached by an outer row of cutwork pointed scallops also of two alternating designs. Narrow bobbin lace footing. The original border of needle lace has been attached to a modern piece of linen in order to reconstruct it partially as a ruff.

The upper part is of reticella, divided into squares in which two geometric patterns alternate. One of these patterns consists of a central circle from which radiate four groups of three leaves and four ovoid shapes with a quadrant device in each corner. The other pattern is a variation of this, also containing the group of three leaves. The lower punto in aria section consists of slightly reduced versions of the same patterns in rounded shapes from which depend patterned triangles.

Given from the collection of Mary, Viscountess Harcourt GBE

Exhibited in Treasures of the Royal Courts, Victoria & Albert Museum, 2013.

The technique of cutwork used to make this piece of lace was the creation of a delicate structure of needle lace stitches across the spaces cut in a fine linen ground. It reached the height of its popularity in the late sixteenth and early seventeeth century, when it was used to decorate every type of linen and in particuar to draw attention to the face and throat in the form of collars and ruffs.

This short length of border may well have been part of a ruff, and it has been reconstructed in this way in the museum with the attachment of a linen support.

T.14-1965