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Coat and Waistcoat

1790s (made), 1870-1910 (altered)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

Man’s court coat and waistcoat, the coat of dark purple woollen broadcloth. It has a standing 2½-inch (6 cm) collar and curving 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 4 inches (10 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats 2¼ inches (5.7 cm) deep, beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, yellow and black and shades of blue, pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and a meandering line of beads, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and back opening. There are 8 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket, 3 on each cuff and 1 at the top and hem of the pleats. The fronts fasten with a hook & eye at mid-chest.

The waistcoat has a standing 2½ inch (6.2 cm) collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The fronts are made of ivory silk taffeta, the back of fustian. The waistcoat is lined with fustian; the skirt and pocket flap linings and front facings are white silk twill, the pocket linings of bleached linen. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in black, yellow, white and shades of blue, pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and a meandering line of beads, on the pocket flaps and front collarsand along the front edges and hems. There are 10 ½ worked buttonholes along the left front, the top 1½ uncut, with 12 corresponding embroidered buttons on the right front.

The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The side pleats of the coat were rearranged, the sleeves shortened and a wig bag sewn to back of the collar. Machine-made lace ruffles were sewn to the cuffs and 2 buttonholes cut and roughly bound for the 2nd and 3rd buttons. Insertions of cotton were made in the side seams of the waistcoat; it was then taken in at the side seams and 3 pairs of linen ties were sewn to the back.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Coat
  • Waistcoat
Materials and techniques
Wool, silk, linen, cotton; hand-woven, hand-embroidered, hand-sewn Waistcoat is Embroidered silk lined with brushed cotton, and faced with silk.
Brief description
Man's court coat and waistcoat, 1790s, English; Purple broadcloth/ivory silk, embroidered, altered 1870-1910
Physical description
Man’s court coat and waistcoat, the coat of dark purple woollen broadcloth. It has a standing 2½-inch (6 cm) collar and curving 2-piece sleeves ending in cuffs, 4 inches (10 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats 2¼ inches (5.7 cm) deep, beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The coat and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the sleeves and pockets with bleached linen. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white, yellow and black and shades of blue, pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and a meandering line of beads, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and back opening. There are 8 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket, 3 on each cuff and 1 at the top and hem of the pleats. The fronts fasten with a hook & eye at mid-chest.

The waistcoat has a standing 2½ inch (6.2 cm) collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. The fronts are made of ivory silk taffeta, the back of fustian. The waistcoat is lined with fustian; the skirt and pocket flap linings and front facings are white silk twill, the pocket linings of bleached linen. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in black, yellow, white and shades of blue, pink and green, in a pattern of flowers and a meandering line of beads, on the pocket flaps and front collarsand along the front edges and hems. There are 10 ½ worked buttonholes along the left front, the top 1½ uncut, with 12 corresponding embroidered buttons on the right front.

The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for theatre costume. The side pleats of the coat were rearranged, the sleeves shortened and a wig bag sewn to back of the collar. Machine-made lace ruffles were sewn to the cuffs and 2 buttonholes cut and roughly bound for the 2nd and 3rd buttons. Insertions of cotton were made in the side seams of the waistcoat; it was then taken in at the side seams and 3 pairs of linen ties were sewn to the back.
Dimensions
  • Coat, top of right collar to hem length: 111.0cm (approx)
  • Coat, chest under armholes circumference: 103.0cm (approx)
  • Length:
  • Waistcoat, top of right collar to hem length: 71.0cm (approx)
  • Waistcoat, chest under armholes circumference: 104.0cm (approx)
Marks and inscriptions
  • Mr Girardot (handwritten in black ink at the shoulder of the left sleeve)
  • Mr Girardot (handwritten in black ink on the inside left back of the waistcoat)
Credit line
Given by Mr C. Bray
Collection
Accession number
T.710-1972

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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