Waistcoat Part thumbnail 1
Not currently on display at the V&A

Waistcoat Part

1619-1625 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

These panels of unfinished blackwork shows how embroidered garments were made in the early 17th century. The shapes for the fronts and sleeves of a woman's waistcoat. has been drawn in pen and ink on linen, with the design for their embroidery. The linen would have been secured in a frame to hold it taut while the embroidery was done. Once completed, the shapes would have been cut out by a tailor and sewn together. The very short waist of the fronts and close-fitting shape of the sleeves suggest a date between 1619 and 1625.

Blackwork was a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, as on this panel, but also sometimes blue, red or green, on linen. The pattern of flowers, birds and insects is characteristic of embroidery of this period, inspired by herbals and other popular books on the natural world. The style of embroidery uses speckling stitch, comprised of tiny running stitches arranged to give a shaded effect. Blackwork in speckling stitch imitates the graphic method used in woodblock prints to create three-dimensional shapes.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Waistcoat Fronts
  • Waistcoat Sleeves
Materials and techniques
Linen, silk, ink; hand-woven, hand-drawn, hand-embroidered
Brief description
Uncut fronts and sleeves of a woman's waistcoat of linen blackwork, 1619-1625, British; speckling
Physical description
Uncut and unfinished sleeves and fronts for a woman's waistcoat on 2 panels of fine bleached linen embroidered in black silk floss. The ink-drawn pattern of scrolling stems bearing tulips, acorns, pansies and roses, with birds and insects is visible. The fillings of speckling stitch have been worked, but not the outlines of the shapes.
Dimensions
  • Linen panel length: 36.6cm (approx.) (Note: 252A-1902)
  • Linen panel width: 64.0cm (approx.) (Note: 252A-1902)
  • Jacket front length: 32.5cm (approx.) (Note: 252A-1902)
  • Sleeve end height: 56cm (Note: 252-1902)
  • Cuff width: 20cm (Note: 252-1902)
Style
Object history
Said to have been worked by Mary, daughter of Sir Henry Pierrepont (sister of the Earl of Kingston), who married Fulk Cartwright of Ossington in 1606.

Purchased. Registered File number 3721-1902. For report by Mr Walter Crane, see RP. 1421/1902, 80090/1902.
Subjects depicted
Summary
These panels of unfinished blackwork shows how embroidered garments were made in the early 17th century. The shapes for the fronts and sleeves of a woman's waistcoat. has been drawn in pen and ink on linen, with the design for their embroidery. The linen would have been secured in a frame to hold it taut while the embroidery was done. Once completed, the shapes would have been cut out by a tailor and sewn together. The very short waist of the fronts and close-fitting shape of the sleeves suggest a date between 1619 and 1625.

Blackwork was a style of needlework popular in England in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. It was worked with a single colour of silk, usually black, as on this panel, but also sometimes blue, red or green, on linen. The pattern of flowers, birds and insects is characteristic of embroidery of this period, inspired by herbals and other popular books on the natural world. The style of embroidery uses speckling stitch, comprised of tiny running stitches arranged to give a shaded effect. Blackwork in speckling stitch imitates the graphic method used in woodblock prints to create three-dimensional shapes.
Bibliographic references
  • Nevinson, John Lea, Catalogue of English Domestic Embroidery of the Sixteenth & Seventeenth Centuries, Victoria and Albert Museum, Department of Textiles, London: HMSO, 1938, p.80
  • Patterson, Angus, Fashion and Armour in Renaissance Europe: Proud Lookes and Brave Attire, V&A Publishing, London, 2009, ISBN 9781851775811, p. 55, ill.
Collection
Accession number
252&A-1902

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Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
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