We don’t have an image of this object online yet. V&A Images may have a photograph that we can’t show online, but it may be possible to supply one to you. Email us at vaimages@vam.ac.uk for guidance about fees and timescales, quoting the accession number: T.269&A-1972
Find out about our images

Image of Gallery in South Kensington
On display at V&A South Kensington
Fashion, Room 40

Afternoon Dress

1895 (made)
Artist/Maker
Place of origin

This dress features a label inscribed with ‘Appel, New York’. There were a range of businesses and individuals with the name Appel selling and making clothing in New York in the late nineteenth-century. Without an address, it is difficult to further identify who might have made this dress. The S. Appel Clothing Company owned by Solomon Appel was known for producing military uniforms and Louis Levenson who owned the Appel Clothing Company was one of the founding members of The Clothiers’ Association, which was an early form of a garment worker's union. However, this couture garment was likely made in a smaller fashion house, making surviving records harder to find.


Object details

Categories
Object type
Parts
This object consists of 2 parts.

  • Jacket Bodice
  • Skirt
Materials and techniques
Shot silk, net, applied with machine-made lace, lined with silk and buckram, silk gauze, boned
Brief description
Dress of shot silk and net with chemical lace appliqués, designed by Appel, New York, 1895
Physical description
Afternoon dress consisting of a bodice and skirt of red and black shot silk. The bodice and skirt are overlaid with black net with black chemical lace appliqués. The elbow-length puffed sleeves have unlined chemical lace lower sleeves. The high neck is covered with a swathe of silk gauze. Lined with silk. The bodice is boned and the skirt is lined with black buckram with a frill at the hem.
Production typeHaute couture
Credit line
Given by Major and Mrs Broughton
Object history
This dress was owned by Cara Broughton, née Cara Leland Huttleston Rogers (1867-1939), who married Urban Hanlon Broughton (1857-1929) in 1895. As Urban H. Broughton died before he could be elevated to a peerage, their eldest son Urban H.R. Broughton (1896-1966) became 1st Baron Fairhaven of Lode on 20 March 1929, while Cara became 1st Lady Fairhaven. This barony became extinct on Urban H.R.Broughton's death, but a later barony, Baron Fairhaven of Anglesey Abbey, co. Cambridge, was granted to him in 1961, with a remainder to his brother, Henry (1900-1973), to enable this title to continue after his death without male heirs.

This forms part of a large donation of late 19th and early 20th century garments and accessories (with a few historical textiles) donated to the Museum in 1972 by Cara's grandson and Henry's son, Major Ailwyn Broughton and his wife, a year before Ailwyn became Lord Fairhaven following his father's death.

Some of the nineteenth century garments are thought to have been worn by Cara's sister, Anne (1865-1924).
Summary
This dress features a label inscribed with ‘Appel, New York’. There were a range of businesses and individuals with the name Appel selling and making clothing in New York in the late nineteenth-century. Without an address, it is difficult to further identify who might have made this dress. The S. Appel Clothing Company owned by Solomon Appel was known for producing military uniforms and Louis Levenson who owned the Appel Clothing Company was one of the founding members of The Clothiers’ Association, which was an early form of a garment worker's union. However, this couture garment was likely made in a smaller fashion house, making surviving records harder to find.
Collection
Accession number
T.269&A-1972

About this object record

Explore the Collections contains over a million catalogue records, and over half a million images. It is a working database that includes information compiled over the life of the museum. Some of our records may contain offensive and discriminatory language, or reflect outdated ideas, practice and analysis. We are committed to addressing these issues, and to review and update our records accordingly.

You can write to us to suggest improvements to the record.

Suggest feedback

Record createdJune 24, 2009
Record URL
Download as: JSON