Àdìrẹ cloth
Textile
1960-1964 (made)
1960-1964 (made)
Artist/Maker | |
Place of origin |
Àdìrẹ is an indigo-dyed cloth traditionally produced by Yoruba women in south-western Nigeria. A range of resist-dye techniques are used to create àdìrẹ patterns, often incorporating more than one technique in a single cloth. The ground-cloth cotton is folded, stitched, tied or otherwise worked-upon in preparation for dyeing – these areas resist the dye, creating the cloth's distinctive blue and white patterns. The precise origins of àdìrẹ are unknown, though indigo-dyeing has been seen across West Africa for centuries. Àdìrẹ has an enduring presence in the region, becoming a popular, everyday cloth, with many women dyeing àdìrẹ of their own design within the home. Once dyed, àdìrẹ cloth can be wrapped or stitched to create garments, such as a woman's ìró (wrapped skirt). From the 20th century onwards, factory-woven cloth began to be used – this cloth accepted the dye more easily, creating a finer clarity of design. Whilst factories are now able to mass-produce imitation àdìrẹ, the popularity of the traditional hand-worked cloth remains, made by local artisans in historic dyeing centres such as Ibadan.
Àdìrẹ is subcategorised according to the method of resist-dyeing used, each of which carries its own history and produces its own recognisable effect. This cloth is an example of àdìrẹ ẹlékọ, which is often seen as the most recently developed àdìrẹ technique, using a cassava starch paste as the resist. This is applied with a brush or feather using either a meticulously cut metal stencil, or, painted freehand onto the cloth – the latter providing the opportunity for more stylised and complex designs. In this instance, the starch has been applied through a metal stencil. As with many example of àdìrẹ, it is composed of two panels stitched together along the long edges creating one whole piece. This would be worn by women wrapped around the waist with the seam running horizontally, forming an ìró (wrapped skirt).
The pattern is the popular 'oloba' or 'jubilee' design, and features two central medallions framing a king and queen. This was a common design on àdìrẹ cloths and was derived from images of George V and Queen Mary produced on souvenirs and advertisements in 1935 to mark the Silver Jubilee. The king and queen are generally paired with Al Buraq, the horse that carried the Islamic prophet Mohammed to heaven. In this example the horse had been obscured by starch combed in a figure of eight pattern, his legs however remain visible. Another àdìrẹ based on the oloba design can be found within the V&A's collection - CIRC.756-1967.
Àdìrẹ is subcategorised according to the method of resist-dyeing used, each of which carries its own history and produces its own recognisable effect. This cloth is an example of àdìrẹ ẹlékọ, which is often seen as the most recently developed àdìrẹ technique, using a cassava starch paste as the resist. This is applied with a brush or feather using either a meticulously cut metal stencil, or, painted freehand onto the cloth – the latter providing the opportunity for more stylised and complex designs. In this instance, the starch has been applied through a metal stencil. As with many example of àdìrẹ, it is composed of two panels stitched together along the long edges creating one whole piece. This would be worn by women wrapped around the waist with the seam running horizontally, forming an ìró (wrapped skirt).
The pattern is the popular 'oloba' or 'jubilee' design, and features two central medallions framing a king and queen. This was a common design on àdìrẹ cloths and was derived from images of George V and Queen Mary produced on souvenirs and advertisements in 1935 to mark the Silver Jubilee. The king and queen are generally paired with Al Buraq, the horse that carried the Islamic prophet Mohammed to heaven. In this example the horse had been obscured by starch combed in a figure of eight pattern, his legs however remain visible. Another àdìrẹ based on the oloba design can be found within the V&A's collection - CIRC.756-1967.
Object details
Categories | |
Object type | |
Title | Àdìrẹ cloth |
Materials and techniques | Indigo-dyed and starch resisted cotton |
Brief description | Àdìrẹ cloth, indigo starch resist-dyed cotton, Nigeria, 1960-64 |
Physical description | Adire eleko cotton cloth, indigo-dyed and starch resist. The resist has been applied through a stencil. Depicts King George V and Queen Mary. |
Dimensions |
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Object history | One of eight àdìrẹ cloths purchased for the museum by Jane Barbour in the 1960s. All eight cloths were purchased in Ibadan, where Barbour's husband worked at the university. |
Production | Although adire cloths were usually made by men, cloths like this one that were produced using a metal stencil were made by men. |
Subjects depicted | |
Summary | Àdìrẹ is an indigo-dyed cloth traditionally produced by Yoruba women in south-western Nigeria. A range of resist-dye techniques are used to create àdìrẹ patterns, often incorporating more than one technique in a single cloth. The ground-cloth cotton is folded, stitched, tied or otherwise worked-upon in preparation for dyeing – these areas resist the dye, creating the cloth's distinctive blue and white patterns. The precise origins of àdìrẹ are unknown, though indigo-dyeing has been seen across West Africa for centuries. Àdìrẹ has an enduring presence in the region, becoming a popular, everyday cloth, with many women dyeing àdìrẹ of their own design within the home. Once dyed, àdìrẹ cloth can be wrapped or stitched to create garments, such as a woman's ìró (wrapped skirt). From the 20th century onwards, factory-woven cloth began to be used – this cloth accepted the dye more easily, creating a finer clarity of design. Whilst factories are now able to mass-produce imitation àdìrẹ, the popularity of the traditional hand-worked cloth remains, made by local artisans in historic dyeing centres such as Ibadan. Àdìrẹ is subcategorised according to the method of resist-dyeing used, each of which carries its own history and produces its own recognisable effect. This cloth is an example of àdìrẹ ẹlékọ, which is often seen as the most recently developed àdìrẹ technique, using a cassava starch paste as the resist. This is applied with a brush or feather using either a meticulously cut metal stencil, or, painted freehand onto the cloth – the latter providing the opportunity for more stylised and complex designs. In this instance, the starch has been applied through a metal stencil. As with many example of àdìrẹ, it is composed of two panels stitched together along the long edges creating one whole piece. This would be worn by women wrapped around the waist with the seam running horizontally, forming an ìró (wrapped skirt). The pattern is the popular 'oloba' or 'jubilee' design, and features two central medallions framing a king and queen. This was a common design on àdìrẹ cloths and was derived from images of George V and Queen Mary produced on souvenirs and advertisements in 1935 to mark the Silver Jubilee. The king and queen are generally paired with Al Buraq, the horse that carried the Islamic prophet Mohammed to heaven. In this example the horse had been obscured by starch combed in a figure of eight pattern, his legs however remain visible. Another àdìrẹ based on the oloba design can be found within the V&A's collection - CIRC.756-1967. |
Collection | |
Accession number | CIRC.590-1965 |
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Record created | June 24, 2009 |
Record URL |
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